The Festival of Fire

It was just a few weeks ago -- January 16th as a matter of fact - and the family and I were on hand to witness one of the most interesting festivals put on in the Puglia region. It's called "La Focara" - better known in English as The Festival of Fire . And for 3 days in January, the small town of Novoli -- which on the outskirts of the city of Lecce --more than lives up to its name of "The City of Fire"

The center-piece of the Festival of Fire is a huge 22 x 22 meter pyramid of olive branches weaved together and stacked so tightly that it can support one hundred men. And just like it's played out in the last 100 years or so, on the first night of the festival the pinnacle of the pyramid is set ablaze and the bonfire burns like a beacon -- unabated -- for 3 days and 3 nights. The festival culminates on January 18^th with a salute to the Patron Saint of Novoli -- Saint Antonio Abate.

But why a Festival of Fire? Legend has it that although a formal festival began occurring annually in 1905, the origins of La Focara date back to Byzantine times -- of which Saint Antonio Abate is tied.

According to www.focara.it , what IS known is that Saint Antonio Abate was recognized as the "protector" of Novoli as early as 1664. Back then Saint Antonio was known as the Protector of Pigs -- in fact early representations of the Saint show him always side by side a small pig. Call it better marketing or maybe Saint Antonio just had a good PR man, but over time his image evolved to a Protector of all Animals (and not just pigs). Legend also has it that Saint Antonio stole fire from Hell and gave it to humans. And that's as much a reason as any to have a Festival of Fire.

Meanwhile back in the real world, preparations for La Focara begin about a month in advance with the construction of the "Falo" or the wooden pyre starting in earnest on December 15^th. According to Renato De Luca -- a bonfire "expert" brought in to oversee the construction -- between 60,000 to 80,000 bundles of olive wood branches are brought in from all over the local area. Farmers from all over contribute bundles of branches. De Luca feels that with a height of over 20 meters and a base just as large, this Festival of Fire showcases the largest bonfire in Europe.

This year a group of 100 volunteers worked pretty much round-the-clock getting the three-tier wooden pyramid constructed. As the last branches were put into place, the image of Saint Antonio Abate was placed in the center.

In an interview published in the Lecce Quoditiano, Mayor of Novoli -- Oscar Marzo Vetrugno - related that "La Fòcara di Novoli" is not just some local festival to be forgotten as soon as the fire burns out. La Focara is known throughout Italy and attendance has exceeded over 50,000 men, women and children each year. Vetrugno commented that the Festival of Fire is soon to be recognized by UNESCO as a "World Event."

Novoli's Piazza Schipa is the focal point for the pyramid and the festival -- which also welcomed dozens of vendors, fast-food stands, rides and games. Organizers say there's enough space in the piazza to ensure safety yet at the same time accommodate an interested public.

My wife and daughter and I arrived in Novoli early on the evening of January 16^{th, just} in time to endure a roll-call of special guest and VIPS who welcomed everyone within earshot. Then it was time from representatives from the Church to speak their peace. The huge crowd took it all in. Patient to a fault but wishing the formalities would end and the fire would be set ablaze. And then it began: amid a slew of fire works what would make the folks at Disney World envious, the first branch was lit and the Festival of Fire got underway.

The crowd stood mezmorized.The slow crackle of fire slowly spreading. Like some crazy scene out of the "Wicker Man" -- the 22 meter structure was set ablaze -- its flames licking the night time sky.

I've got to think that somewhere 'ol Saint Antonio is smiling. Not only protecting all those pigs and other stall animals, but feeling good about giving Fire to humans who have managed to reap the benefits of that miracle as well.