The Glorius Amaryllis - Largest of the Bulb Plants that Thrive Indoors

The Amaryllis plant is one of the most spectacular of all the indoor indoor houseplants. It can produce two to three flowers stalks that can hold four to five flowers on each stem. These plants give us this fantastic display in the winter when color and live flowers are welcome against the dark and often dismal, cold months. They appear in the floral market usually beginning in November and are sold through January. They make fantastic holiday gifts because they are just about fool proof in getting them to blossom. And who doesn't want that magic moment when the flower stems appear and grow into long, thick stems that hold nature's most wonderful miracle--that of a blooming, brilliant flower that can measure as much as six to eight inches across!

When one first purchases an Amaryllis bulb, either alone or in a packaged kit, the easiest thing is to get it going. The bulbs that one purchases individually are the largest of the different cultivars. These bulbs can measure up to ten to twelve inches in diameter and will produce the largest flowers and the most buds per stem with the most stems. The bulbs that come inside boxed kits are smaller and younger bulbs that will not produce to the same degree as the more mature individual bulbs, but can mature in time. The only thing needed for the growth of the bulbs is good potting medium and a pot large enough so the bulb has at least two inches of space between it and the sides of the pot. The type of container is not as important as the medium because it is from the soil that the water and nutrients feed the bulb.

Once soil and pot are in hand, place enough soil into the bottom of the pot to bring the top of the bulb to just below the top of the rim of the pot. If the pot has a drainage whole(s) in the bottom, place a flat stone or piece(s) of broken pottery over it (them) to prevent soil from coming out the bottom when watering the plant. Upon close observation, you will notice the roots at the bottom of the bulb are dried out and curled into a tight ball around the bulb. Gently separate as much of the root ball as you can and open it up when you can place it across the top of the soil in the pot. Then holding the top of the bulb in place, gently pack the soil around it and press it firmly to support the bulb. Water the soil until it is all moistened. Then place the pot in good bright light in a warm room. It will take a bit of time to rehydrate the roots so they will grow and be able to absorb water from the soil. Allow the top of the soil to dry to 1/2 inch below the surface before watering again. This is to ensure that the roots will not sit in wet soil and rot before they can grow. Within a few days to a week or so you will soon see the tip of a bud on a flower stalk appear.

It will grow quickly if in bright light and in warm temperatures. Once you see the stem grow, water a bit more frequently to hydrate the thirsty flower buds. Most of the giant Amaryllis bulb have thick roots that absorb a huge amount of water and pass it up into the flower stems. The flowers will open when the stalk has grown to its full height. Once the buds begin to open, place the plant is lower light and allow the top surface of the soil to dry a bit, The more light, more warmth, and more water the faster the flowers expend their life. If the conditions are right, the plant can continue to flower for several weeks. Often times, a third flower stalk can appear after each of the buds on the first two stems have withered. I have often known a third stem to appear several weeks after all the previous stems died.

While the plant is in flower, it is very important to give it only water while the followers are blooming. Never give the plant any fertilizer or plant food during this time. The addition of fertilizer will only prolong the dormant period if the flower stalks are not yet present and will make the life of the flowers shorter than normal if they are in full bloom. One season many years ago, a customer purchased a huge giant white Amaryllis that she asked me to pot up for her. I did so and told her it will take a while before she sees any growth because this variety is a late bloomer and usually flowers in January and February. She took the potted bulb home in late December and waited. In mid January she came in to tell me that there was still no sign of growth. The bulb was just sitting there. I asked her if she followed my direction concerning watering, and she said that she was very diligent about doing it correctly. I told her to put the bulb in as much light as she could in a warm room and be patient.

Meanwhile I potted up all the bulbs that were showing signs of growth to make sure the flower stems were not stunted and the buds ruined. The garden center where I worked orders hundreds of bulbs each season in all forms. When a kit showed signs of growing it needed potting so the flowers would not die. The white giant bulbs did take their sweet time to flower, but when they did the show was spectacular. The customer came in again at the end of January and I told her I still had one or two that were a bit slow as well. She went home to wait. Then in the beginning of February she brought the pot back in and said she thought there was something wrong with this bulb because it still had no signs of growth. I had a couple of the large white plants in flower stalk and told her I would gladly exchange this one for one that was about to flower. She was happy to finally see a plant with growth and buds.

Just before she left the store, I asked her if she had done anything besides water the plant. She said she was using a little bit of high phosphorous fertilizer in the water every time she watered it and had been since she first brought it home. Well, that was the problem. She had kept the bulb in its dominant stage, and it was not ready for growth. I then placed the pot on the back side of one of the display tables and just about forgot about it. I watered it when it needed, but did nothing else. March came and went. April came and went. I check the bulb once to see if it was still firm. Yes, so I just set it back in place. May and June came and went and one day in mid July I noticed two long and thick flower stalks, one with five buds and the other with four, and another stalk peeking out between the two. I let it open and the next day I brought it to the front with two huge fragrant flowers atop these stems and placed it in a display visible upon entering the building. The first person to walk in saw it and could not believe it was flowering in July. She purchased it immediately!

This is not the usual case for these bulbs, but it shows the vitality and diversity that these plants will tolerate to in order to show off their splendor.

After all the flowers wilt, the plant will begin to grow its long sward-like leaves that allow the plant to absorb new nutrients to replace those used in developing that fabulous display. This is a very important time in the life of the bulb because the absorption of nutrients is so very important for the production of next season's flowers. Once all the flowers have died, cut the thick stems off as close to the top of the bulb as possible without cutting the newly formed leaves. When cutting the stems, be sure to take precautions when removing them because those stems are full of water and will spill when taken off the plant. If you notice the stem it is hollow with very thick walls that allow the absorption of water to travel to the flowers at the top.And it is the tubular construction that gives the stems the strength to support the massive flowers. Now it is time to allow the plant to absorb as much nutrient as possible. During the time the plant is foliating, it is important to give it as much sun as possible and to keep the soil evenly moist. Many people, myself included, put the plants outside all summer long to absorb as much light as possible. It is very important to give the plant a heavy dose of a high phosphorous fertilizer weekly during the summer months. If you had taken measurements of the bulb before planting and compared them to the measurements of the bulb after flowering, you will notice that the bulb has shrunk considerably. The flowers took a huge amount of nutrients and now they must be replaced so the same display will hold true for the next cycle.

All summer long the bulb and root system are pulling in nutrients and storing them inside the bulb. As summer progresses, and the days get colder and shorter, it is time to put the plant into dormancy so new buds can develop. I usually cut off the foliage if it has not already turned yellow and died by the end of September to mid October. This is the resting time where the bulb is busy producing more of those giant flowers for its grand performance during the next flower cycle.
]
During this time, do not water the bulb at all and place the pot in a cool dark area where it can do its thing. If it is put into dormancy in September, the bulb may show signs of growing in December to begin its brilliant show once again. I usually hold mine until later in February so the sun will be stronger when the plant needs it to begin the absorption process once again.

Thus is the cycle of the giant Amaryllis bulb. There are many new cultivars that are on the market today that offer the collector a multitude of choices. Besides the general reds, pinks and whites, stripes and splotches have popped up in recent yeas. There varieties that are huge producing giant displays that may have to be supported upright, to small miniature plants that give clusters of small delightful flowers measuring just inches across. Whatever your preference, there is an Amaryllis bulb out there with your name on it waiting for you to bring it home and enjoy. But be warned, you may become addicted!