The Grand Canyon Rim to Rim

More than a mile deep, ranging from 4 to 18 miles wide and 277 miles long, the Grand Canyon is one of the few natural features big enough to be seen from space. Nearly two billion years of the geological history of the earth have been exposed as the Colorado River and its tributaries have cut their channels through layer after layer of rock over an estimated six million year period. As impressive as the statistics for the Grand Canyon are, just reading about this colossal natural wonder will not give you the perspective that can only be obtained from hiking it. From within you discover that the sheer scale of the canyon is at once both exhilarating and humbling. The tallest man on earth is but a mere speck in this other worldly landscape.

Less than one percent of the millions who visit the Grand Canyon each year dare to venture a significant distance below the rim but that is where the magic truly is. The wild, desert country found below the rim is the place where backpackers can really test their mettle. For a difficult but heavenly hike, I suggest the challenging but rewarding rim to rim trek.

Most of those who visit the Grand Canyon, visit the South Rim which is the more developed portion of Grand Canyon National Park and offers the most convenient access. But a whole new perspective of this geological awaits those who visit the lesser known North Rim. The rim to rim trek can be accomplished either from South to North or North to South and there are benefits to either choice. Personally I prefer the South to North trek as "civilization" tends to diminish quickly as you hike from South to North and you encounter fewer people as your hike progresses.

The optimum times for a rim to rim hike are late May to mid-June and late September up until mid-November when the access road to the North Rim (AZ 67) is closed in anticipation of the first major snowfall. The floor of the canyon is a desert environment and it is brutally hot from late June through August, so hiking during those months is best avoided. You should plan on spending at least three days and two nights completing your rim to rim hike. Many hikers choose a more leisurely four days and three nights approach. Rim to rim has been accomplished in a single day but I don't recommend it except for expert hikers. For a South to North hike, you can choose to descend via either the Bright Angel or the South Kaibab trail, either of which will connect you with the inner canyon and the North Kaibab trail, the route to ascend to the North Rim.

There are a few logistical issues when planning a Grand Canyon rim to rim hike. You will need to arrange transportation back from the North Rim to the South Rim unless you plan to double your fun by returning on foot. If you are hiking with a partner and have two vehicles available, one option is to first drive to the North Rim and stage one of the vehicles there for the return trip in advance of starting your hike from the South Rim. You can also use public transportation to get from one rim to the other. Contact either the Grand Canyon Coaches (928) 638-0281 or the Trans-Canyon Shuttle (928) 638-2820 to inquire about availability. You will also need a National Park Service backcountry permit, required for all hikes involving overnight stays in the Grand Canyon. Fees for the backcountry permit are $10.00 plus $5.00 per person per night. Complete information on applying for backcountry permits is available by writing or calling the Backcountry Office. The mailing address is: Backcountry Office, PO Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. Backcountry Rangers are available via telephone at (520) 638-7875, from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Mountain Standard Time. Be prepared to try many times to get through. Reservations cannot be made over the phone, but must be accomplished by obtaining and completing a permit application which can be submitted either by mail or by fax to (520) 638-2125. The permit forms can be requested by mail or can be downloaded in PDF form. You may submit a permit request up to 4 months in advance of the planned dates of your hike. You should obtain your permit before making travel arrangements as the demand for Grand Canyon Backcountry Permits is pretty prolific and only a fixed number of permits are issued per day. Chances are good that you may not get your first choice of dates so try to have backup dates and itineraries.

This has been only an introduction to Grand Canyon rim to rim hikes and I strongly recommend that you do further research before embarking on this rigorous trek. Many excellent guide books exist on hiking the Grand Canyon and can be obtained from your favorite bookseller. I also recommend that you obtain official topographical maps for the Grand Canyon in advance so that you can familiarize yourself with the area.

Trek Summary:

Distance - 21 miles

Duration - Three to four days

Difficulty - Strenuous