The Marfa Lights: A Modern Desert Mystery

In southwestern Texas lies the Chisos (Ghost Spirit) Mountains and an unsolved mystery. In this almost isolated area north of these mountains, a small town continues to exist. Marfa is situated on the caprock escarpment of the Trans-Pecos area of the Texas-Mexico border. In the high desert, the air is clean and the nights are dark, a perfect backdrop for the mysterious bright and multi-colored lights that haunt this area nightly.

This is the Chihuahua Desert, with a backdrop of many mountain peaks and has many memories of Indian wars and land feuds. The mystery of the Marfa Lights began as early as 1840, when wagon trains traveling west through the Mitchell Flats reported these strange lights.

The first "official" reporting of the lights occurred in 1883. While camped at the base of the Paisano Pass, Robert Ellison stated that he saw the lights as he was looking toward the Chinati Mountains. He and his men thought they were the campfires of the Apache Indians and made preparations to defend themselves. The next day they investigated where they thought the lights came from, finding nothing. No sign of Indians or others camping or traveling.

The Mitchell Flats near Chinati Mountain are where the lights are most often seen today. Local's became concerned for the people stopped along the highway waiting for the lights and an official viewing area was built about ten miles East of Marfa along highway 90.

Bouncing, glowing, flickering and changing colors, the Marfa Lights are definitely a unique experience and mystery that can be enjoyed and pondered by any of us on any given evening. Where there are several theories that attempt to explain the phenomenon, none have convinced the majority of the cause or origin of these lights. One popular theory was the lights were nothing more than vehicles traveling along nearby highway 67, their headlights and taillights reflecting off of the desert atmosphere. Local Marfa residents state that they have seen the lights as early as 1916.

Many official investigations have ensued throughout the history of the area including the U.S. Army in 1943. There investigation concluded that they were unexplained. There were no vehicles allowed in the area after nightfall, and only one ranch existed on the Mitchell Flats. That ranch only had one outside light. Another investigation took place in the 1908's. This search used airplanes and off-road vehicles in an attempt to "catch" the lights. The conclusion of this investigation was that the lights were like approaching a desert mirage or a rainbow. As you approach, you would never reach them. St. Elmo's Fire, ball lightning, earthquake lights, Indian ghosts and UFO's are all popular theories of the witnesses of the Marfa lights. Most are easily discounted, breeding more theories and strengthening legends.

The most popular scientific theory of the light's origin surrounds the geological make-up of the high desert area. An effect described as triboluminescence is light that occurs from the friction of crystalline material. Quartz is abundant in the area and scientist believe that the pressures of the rapidly changing desert temperatures could cause the quartz to expand and contract, creating the friction required to create this triboluminescence. Still not completely explained, locals just smile and make statements like, "Okay, we have ghost lights, so what?"

Campfire circles all over the Southwest tell a tale of Indian ghosts. Phosphorescent souls of Indian warriors, the most popular story is full of treachery, murder and sadness. Where several Apache warriors left their camp for several days to hunt, returned only to find their families slaughtered by Spanish explorers. The legend has it that the Apache warriors travel throughout the Mitchell Flats in search of their lost wives and children.

Another popular legend is that of Alsate. Alsate was an Apache leader in the 1800's. His tribe made many thieving expeditions into Mexico and was eventually caught. They eventually were released or escaped, and the tribe returned to the Rio Grande Valley only to continue their dishonest pillaging. They were eventually caught again and Alsate was executed along with the rest of his tribe. Many of the local ranchers of the time believed they saw the ghost of Alsate, moving around his land, often along the Chinati Mountain Range.

A quick search on the internet will reveal many personal accounts of close-up encounters with the Marfa Lights and just as many theories to explain them. There are also as many skeptics as there are witnesses. As the stories and explanations continue to grow and proliferate, the mystery of the Marfa Lights continue to amaze and baffle locals and travelers alike. So, take a stroll to Marfa, Texas and enjoy the beauty of the Big Bend area and the high deserts and mountains of the Fort Davis area, but don't forget to look out over the Mitchell Flats in the evening and ponder their existence.