The Northern Section of the Blue Ridge Parkway
America's Most Visited National Park is a Two-Lane Masterpiece
This article covers approximately the first third of the parkway from its beginning, near Charlottesville VA, to the Peaks of Otter lodge near Bedford VA.
The entrance to the BRP is at Rockfish Gap, off of Interstate 64 at the exit for US 250. A surprisingly abandoned and run-down travel center doesn't provide the best façade for the parkway, but the view improved very quickly.
As the drive begins, one is struck at the road's elegant architecture. There are no white lines on the shoulders, only the yellow ones in the middle of the road. This gives the entire length of the BRP the feel of a park access road.
This really is the point of the Blue Ridge Parkway. It is a National Park - the most visited one in the National Park System.
One can thank Stanley William Abbott, the architect of the parkway. If a 469 mile piece of asphalt can be a work of art, well HERE IT IS!
The 45mph speed limit lends itself to a calm easy drive around the curves, dips and rises. An occasional fool on a motorcycle or in a Cooper sped by passing us on the left, but they were the exceptions.
The first visitor center heading south on the parkway is at Humpback Rocks (mile 5.8). There is a small bookstore here along with restrooms.
Of special interest is a trail that leads through a working pioneer farm exhibit with park staff in period dress explaining the various sections of the farm.
There are other hiking trails here; including some that actually go to the Humpback Rocks, but the road itself is our prime focus on this trip.
The BRP is a haven for hikers, though, as there are multiple trails along its 469 mile distance, including the legendary Appalachian Trail.
On either side of the parkway the view was breathtaking; even with the haze caused by over-development and the resultant pollution. At other times this northern section of the road snakes through wooded areas with the occasional meadow.
Near the parking area at Yankee Horse Ridge (mile 34.4) is an interesting logging railroad exhibit featuring a quick trail to small waterfall, known as Wigwam Falls.
We stopped for lunch at the small restaurant at the Otter Creek Recreation area (mile 60.8). Being Memorial Day, needless to say the restaurant was packed.
We checked out the road kitsch at the small gift shop, while we waited to be seated. Our lunches (Grilled Cheese and Fish respectively) were tasty and worth the wait.
Our next stop was just down the road at the James River Visitor Center (mile 63.6). Near here is the lowest elevation on the entire parkway at 646 ft.
The visitor center features an exhibit at an old canal lock, along with an interesting hiking trail, The Trail of Trees. The latter winds near the James with small plaques interpreting the various tree species that inhabit this part of Virginia.
Soon after leaving the James River valley, the parkway climbs to almost 4,000 feet, its highest point in Virginia. The winding nature of the BRP makes the climb not too obvious.
We stayed two nights at the lodge at the breathtaking Peaks of Otter Lodge (mile 85.6) right on the parkway. The Peaks is the first of the three lodges spaced about a days drive apart on the BRP.
The rooms have no TVs and telephones, but frankly, that isn't the point of this resort. Being able to look out your room window across Abbott Lake at Sharp Top (one of the two peaks of Otter) is better than the boob-tube anyway.
Peaks of Otter features an excellent restaurant. I had a pasta dish the first night and Carolina-style ribs the next night; both were top rank.
Hiking trails obviously abound. The Abbott Lake trail winds around the man-made lake; we saw quite a few deer while hiking on the opposite side of the lake.
Another trail leads to the Johnson Farm exhibit, which details a farm which during the 19th and 20th century helped supply the Mons Hotel, a long since gone resort that was popular in this part of Virginia after the Civil War.
Once again, we saw quite a few deer on this trail, some near the foundation of the Mons hotel ruins.
One day we traveled to Appomattox Courthouse Historical Park where one can see where Bobby Lee and the confederates surrendered to Ohioan U.S. Grant, effectively ending the Civil War.
We also stopped by the National D-Day Memorial in nearby Bedford. It was definitely worth the visit.
We are definitely planning on returning to the Peaks of Otter even if we aren't doing the parkway. It is most definitely the jewel of the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Published by Paul Williams
Paul Williams brings a wide range of experiences to his writing. His band, Quarkspace, has long been considered to be one of the top American Spacerock bands. He also has worked extensively in technology, bo... View profile
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