The "Real" Florida - A Beach Weekend in Navarre

Looking for a laid-back weekend getaway with your special someone? Then point your GPS at Navarre and Navarre Beach in Florida.

Tucked in the western end of the Florida Panhandle just east of Pensacola, Navarre (the mainland part) and Navarre Beach (the barrier island) are about as far from stereotypical Florida as you can get. No Miami Beach-like traffic and throbbing discos, no Disney-style crowds or prices - just small-town appeal with hot sunny days, silken nights and some of the brightest, softest, white-sand beaches you'll find anywhere.

Start your trip by checking into one of two mainland hotels - Best Western Navarre or Comfort Inn Navarre - both conveniently located close to the Navarre Beach bridge, or by booking a roomier condo on the beach. While some condominiums are still undergoing renovations to repair damage from hurricanes Ivan and Dennis, many others are ready to rent, and rates drop considerably in the off-season (after Labor Day).

After unpacking, head south across the beach bridge for dinner at Cocodries, which offers fresh Gulf seafood, steaks, salads and other items with a dash of New Orleans flavor. Among the selections not to be missed: a cup of rich and creamy shrimp and artichoke soup, a platter of crispy-on-the-outside, moist-on-the-inside crab ball appetizers, and the catfish Orleans, which is lightly fried and topped with a mound of wonderfully seasoned crawfish etoufee.

Following dinner, head out onto the roomy deck, order a daiquiri from the outdoor bar and grab a table overlooking the Gulf to take in the star-studded sky and calming surf.

Enjoy a solid eight (or nine or ten - you're on vacation, right?) hours of sleep, then start your Saturday with breakfast at Sailor's Grill, on the island just over the beach bridge. Grab a bakery item and cup of fair-trade coffee in the coffee-shop side, or settle into a table - indoors or out - in the dining area for a more filling meal. Try the Mexican omelet, a spicy combo of eggs, cheese, salsa and sour cream, accompanied by a side of chunky home fries; or go with the fluffy and filling pecan pancakes. You have the option of ordering one, two or three, and you'll need a competitive eater's appetite to finish all three.

After settling your tab, pick up a couple of sticky buns or muffins in the bakery for the next morning's breakfast, then head downstairs to the beach area right outside along Santa Rosa Sound, the body of water separating the mainland from the barrier island. Set up your beach chairs, slather on some sunscreen and kick back while watching the Jetskis and Hobie Cats ply the waves and the beach regulars competing at volleyball nearby.

Grab a light lunch at Sailor's Grill (the cheese nachos or grouper fingers are good choices) before heading down Gulf Boulevard, the main beach drag, to Eco-Beach, where $10 will rent you a bike for the day. Then cycle along the beach bike trail that runs for seven miles along the north side of Gulf Boulevard to scope out the charming and colorful beach architecture, which still features more homes and townhouses than high-rise condos.

All that cycling is bound to build up an appetite, so plan on having dinner on the mainland at the East River Smokehouse, just north of Highway 98 on Route 87. In addition to savory ribs with a tangy sauce, you'll find turkey, pork, beef, sausage and chicken sandwiches, cole slaw, beans, potato salad and bread pudding.

Finally, wrap up your day by heading to Juana's Pagodas on the beach, just next to Sailor's Grill. The laid-back beach bar features live music on weekend nights, along with Juanawackers (think of a milkshake with alcohol), several beers on tap, daiquiris, margaritas and plenty of locals. Arrive before dark, and you can try your luck at the sunset game: come closest to guessing the time the sun slips below the horizon, and you'll win a free drink and the opportunity to toast the crowd.

Enjoy sleeping in the next morning, make a quick breakfast of your muffins or sticky buns, then pack a cooler, towels and umbrella, and head for the beach. The main beach parking lot is easy to find: just at the end of the Navarre Beach bridge. A short hike over the dunes (recently renourished and loaded with seashells and chunks of sand dollars) brings you to stunning view of the Gulf of Mexico. Settle in, soak in some rays, and dunk yourself in the surf whenever you get too hot. (A safety note: pay close attention to the warning flags on the beach - red means dangerous surf and rip currents, yellow means exercise caution, green or blue means the water is relatively calm.)

When you're ready for a late lunch, just walk over to Cocodries and sample the Sunday specials served outside. Sundays are Bikers at the Beach days, and there's always something tasty and casual available for takeout or dining on the deck; past specials have included jambalaya or soft-shell crab sandwiches. Don't be deterred by the crowds of motorcycles: it's always a fairly mellow crowd. That's the joy of spending time in this laid-back, "real Florida" destination.