I make my own biodiesel. So I get folks coming up to me to talk about it.
Usually about once a week, I get into a "healthy discussion" that has something to do with biodiesel. This week, once again the fave topic was about biodiesel engine conversion - whether it's really necessary to buy loads of fancy gizmos and hoses and all sorts of other crap to "convert" a regular diesel engine to run on biodiesel.
My answer is... NO!
Quickie Biodiesel 101
Before I get into explaining my answer, for the benefit of those folks who've heard about biodiesel (but don't really know what it is), I will provide a quickie explanation.
Biodiesel is an alternative fuel commonly made from natural biological sources (thus the "bio" prefix). Crop seed like corn, canola, rapeseed, olives, etc., all carry an oil content commonly used as the raw chemical base for making biodiesel. There is a lot of controversy about how using crop seed screws up our food chain, which I explain here. Thankfully there are some folks making biodiesel from non-food stock like palm oil, animal fat, and algae.
All ethics aside...
The diesel engine, patented by Rudolf Diesel in the 1890s, originallyran with peanut oil, a vegetable-based fuel source. Many of us know Henry Ford as an automotive pioneer. However, few of us know that he held one or two patents
As we know, soon afterwards petroleum came online as the main fuel source, and most diesel and gasoline engines were purposed to work with this. Surprisingly, little to no modification was needed to get a diesel engine to run on petroleum diesel fuel. The changes was made, and over these last several generations people have forgotten the diesel engine's more organic origins.
Beginning with the energy crisis of the 1970s, environmentally sensitive and cost-conscious individuals have pushed for the "rediscovery" of the diesel engine's ability to burn organic fuel. The rise in fossil fuel prices these last few years have led to yet another push in awareness for biodiesel.
Fortunately biodiesel fuel shares such similar combustion properties with regular petroleum diesel that little to no modification need be done on your engine to it to have it run your car's diesel engine. Regular vegetable oil bought off the shelf will run a diesel engine just fine (I go buy some once in a while just for fun). For long term use, however, most folks make an effort to remove the glycerol content from raw vegetable oil, thus leaving a more pure vegetable oil content - chemically called methyl esters - which is considered "pure biodiesel".
Now a point of ongoing controversy...
Diesel Engine "Conversion" To Run Biodiesel - Bogus!
Certain people claim that you need to "convert" your diesel car to run with biodiesel. Because diesel engines were originally made to run on veggie oil, I think the need for conversion is a load of hogwash.(I originally wrote about this here).
There will always be certain exceptions to any statement. In the biodiesel case, if any, someone would usually only need to change some o-rings, seals and hoses in older diesel engines as these have been shown to degrade due to biodiesel's non-petroleum chemistry. By replacing such antiquated rubber-work, most diesel engines will generally run just fine on biodiesel afterwards.
I have driven my unmodified 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI on biodiesel for almost three years - including during the winter. At 175,000 miles, nearly all on biodiesel (or blend), it's doing just fine.
Then Why The Conversion Push?
Then why the push to sell you crap you don't need?
Your ignorance + solution inundation = you perceive a need = you will buy
It has to do with the buyer's ignorance, and the fabricated perception about what a diesel engine car "needs".
Buyer Ignorance
Many buyers of diesel conversion kits fall into the small car or truck category. A lot of these folks bought their car because it gets good miles-per-gallon (mpg), or provides exceptional power. Aside from these attributes, there are just as many (most certainly more) folks who don't know a thing about how a diesel engine works, let alone that it was originally designed to run on vegetable oil.
Sellers of so-called "biodiesel conversion kits" find opportunity in buyer ignorance.
Next there's...
Solution Inundation
The whole scam behind the argument that one needs to convert a car to run on biodiesel is that its sales pitch is so exclusive. The seller will inundate you with information, and so convincingly that it leaves no room for the thought that there might be cheaper alternatives.
Your Perceive a Need = You Will Buy
By banking on your ignorance with respect to a problem, and by fabricating the exclusivity of their solution to your problem, they'll get you to put out hard cash on a load of trash.
In the end, the guy who wants to sell you $4000 worth of non-factory-approved "conversion equipment" for your car isn't really converting your car. He's certainly selling you equipment that gets toted around in your car. It looks good (maybe), but it doesn't convert the car. All that this horrendously expensive equipment does is heat your biodiesel fuel.
This is not converting the car. This is called heating the fuel.
Okay. So, What Is The Real Problem?
Here's the problem: in cooler temperatures, biodiesel will gelatinize into a useless syrupy or semi-solid goo. A fuel pump cannot push this stuff, and your engine will die.
The conversion guys are selling you a heating system that makes sure your biodiesel doesn't goo. It uses tubes, wires, may require cutting your fuel tank, adding another fuel tank, fancy valves and gizmos. This is all a load of crap that could break down later on - just to keep the fuel thin enough to pass through the fuel line.
What if there was an alternative that would cost only pennies, and was just as reliable? Would you be interested in looking at that?
If your answer is "yes, then read my suggestion in this article and then come back here.
The Argument Commences
Some would argue that heating the fuel makes the fuel atomize better when it's injected into the combustion chamber. In some cases, I am sure is true. But atomization again can be achieved with what I propose in my article.
Instead of getting ripped off by some guy who sells you some fancy trash, why not spend a few pennies and convert the fuel without heat. In my article I propose this by simply adding no more than 5% paint thinner during the winter The paint thinner (or similar chemical) serves as an adjuvant that enables better fuel atomization without heating. That's it. Easy!
When I do this with my biodiesel stock, it does not begin to freeze until about -15° Fahrenheit. Just to be on the safe side, one can always blend the vegg mix with a little bit of regular diesel fuel or kerosene - further enhancing the fuel's atomization properties and avoiding the dreaded gelling.
During the summer I run my car on 100% biodiesel without any chemicals. Again, doing this has not harmed my car in 175,000 miles.
Get Some Balls and Try It
I've written this article for the benefit of those who are skirting the edge of wimpdom - being brave enough to try biodiesel, but who are making excuses not to try it - one such excuse being that they can' afford to buy those expensive conversion-kit jokes.
Tell you what: If it's winter, make or get some biodiesel. Then go to the hardware store and mix in a 5% solution (by volume) of paint thinner. Then leave a sample outside in the cold (or freezer). If it gels, then add some diesel or kerosene, shake it up and see if it still freezes up.
Chances are it won't. If it doesn't - go with that mix. Shove a few gallons in the tank and let 'er rip.
- John
P.S...Word of Caution: Biodiesel is greasy. Grease clings to dirt. If your fuel tank has any suspended dirt floating around in there, biodiesel will grab onto it and send it on through to your fuel filter, where it should stop. If you have loads of dirt floating around in your fuel tank, after trying out biodiesel your fuel filter may clog. If this happens, don't panic. Just replace your fuel filter and try again. You may need to go through one or two filters until your tank clears out. After it's cleared, rest assured the biodiesel will keep your tank and lines dirt-free afterwards.
Have fun!
- John
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- Conversion kits are hogwash.
- Use paint thinner or similar adjuvant.
- Be brave and try it.





5 Comments
Post a Commentcheck your sources your engine runs ten times better with biodiesel
How "newer" did you want his to be? Its a 2003 TDI Jetta? I have a Cummins 5.9L 2007 Dodge. Ever since O bought the vehicle brand new, I've used B100. Its available at the pump in some areas of the midwest. I to once had it gell but began adding paint thinner never exceeding 10% and have no longer had any issues with it gelling ever since. My pickup alreaddy has 90K miles on it without any issues whatsover, not one. The author is correct. There has been a manufactured fear and needs by competing industries and its worked and they know it. Manufacturers in the US do not want to incur the wrath of the NPRA, aka National Petroleum Refiners asssociation. Why do you think John Deere only advocates B20 in their engines? Because its easier to be in the "Food Business." Case IH which by the way states its permissable to use B100 in their engines and then goes on to say you might have this or that without giving a full positive glow of using biodiesel in pure form. Did you also know
Your information only applies to older diesel engines, not newer ones. Please revise your article to state this. Plenty of new engines have been ruined because they used biodiesel improperly. Also you neglect to state if you are using WVO as "biodiesel" or processed oil as BioDiesel... because there is a HUGE difference.
OK.. I have a farm use truck, I tow heavy stuff... 2500 HD cattle/farm equipment, etc... I have been contemplating if the loss in power (the 650 ft lbs torque) is necessarry or if I will be able to to TOW on veggies or not.. ALOS - can you point me to a source for fuel lines... in case I need to have the ability to switch between the fuel sources??? they don't exactly have recycled oil stations open at 2 am and I have to travel late at night alot for work... SOoooooo I want to be able to switch between one and the other if possible.. however, I need to know what to do with the fuel lines, the residue in the engine and HOW to liquify that non-consumend oil.. Ky gets MIGHTY COLD in the winter!!! SO... can you point me to a good basics book on a DIY self converting kit... THANKS! I looked to see if anyoen had asked this question.. I couldn't find it, so I hope I am not a bother..
:-D
Thanks!
Thank you for the lesson, again, and the history!
I will go back and print off with bullet points (I am a visual learner) and I need to hear things about 20 times to commit great stuff like this to memory!! : )