Dulany's Grille & Pub, 9940 Kennerly Center (South County)
The burgers comes standard at a half pound in this South County neighborhood bar. But if you're really after the best burger in St. Louis, you order the Dulany Burger. That's ¾ lb. of ground chuck, charbroiled to order, and topped with - not your choice of cheese - but swiss, american and provel cheeses - on a Kaiser roll. And then some bacon! Add to that your choice on the side of fries, cole slaw or potato salad (don't you dare order the lowfat cottage cheese!) and you're facing a challenge for under $9. The Dulany Burger is lightly seasoned and expertly grilled to get the flavor of the flame without unwanted char. The meat is so tasty you'll want to pass on the ketchup, mustard, lettuce, onion and tomato.
While the burger is unparalleled, the beverages and environment fall somewhat short. The beer selection is pedestrian, consisting mainly of various flavors from Anheuser-Busch. The only standout is Guiness. Dulany's can also get quite smoky in both the bar and restaurant seating. However, in January 2011 that should all change when most St. Louis County restaurants go smoke-free. The only outdoor seating puts you at a few tables in the front of a heavily-traveled strip mall. But don't let any of those things keep you away from the burger.
The Royale, 3132 South Kingshighway (South City)
A half pound of Australian Wagyu Kobe Beef, fire-grilled medium or less and slid between the halves of a spectacular bakery bun makes the Royale Burger the runner-up patty in St. Louis. The quality of the meat is what makes this a great hamburger. But if you want more than lettuce, onion, tomato and condiments, cheese and bacon will run you extra. A fully-dressed Royale tends toward the decadent at $11.75.
The biggest drawback to The Royale - No fries! A burger comes off incomplete without french fries. You can choose a side from two kinds of potato chips and assorted salads made from corn, cabbage or cucumbers but it's not the same as fries, is it? The outstanding beer selection makes some headway in rebalancing the scale. Ten taps of great microbrewed and imported beers plus bottled selections will satisfy even the most demanding beer snob. And The Royale has an outstanding patio out back to while away an afternoon or summer evening.
O'Connell's Pub, 4652 Shaw Avenue (South City)
No claims to imported beef and they don't put the patty on a scale. This is pub food but still a burger worthy of Number 3 on the list for just $5.25. Add cheese and onions and fill up the plate with fries, onion rings or a bowl of chili and you still won't spend a sawbuck. Nothing fancy, but the dark wood booths and tables provide a warmth to the pub that has been honed since the doors opened in 1962.
The beer selection, while leaning heavily toward Anheuser-Busch products for an Irish bar, is somewhat balanced by Guiness (at room temperature), Harp, Bass and Smithwick's. And if you're looking for a wee dram to fight off the chill in the air, O'Connell's has a fine selection of Irish whiskeys and single-malt Scotch.
Next time you have a hankering for a burger, don't drive through and get the same sandwich you could get in at least 50 other cities. Try one of these outstanding local hamburgers. You'll have to get out of your car for it but it will be worth the trip.
Published by Nick Franke
Two Daughters, one Son. Always looking for new tea, beer and Scotch. Enjoy writing, running, travel and movies, although not all at the same time. Two-time Jeopardy candidate. Have scuba dived with sharks, s... View profile
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