Tilefish: The What's and What Not's for a Community Marine Aquarium

Dartfish are a familiar fish that have been wowing marine aquarists for years. The Scissor tail, Blue Gudgeon, Purple, Orange and Zebra Dartfish and the lesser known and more expensive Helfrich's Dartfish are frequently obtainable and for the most part encountered in aquariums throughout the world. When it comes to their cousins, the Tilefish, you are now opening up another can of worms and hitting on a truly vibrant and brilliant fish that, unfortunately has not been marketed or seen until recently.

Tilefish are not as common, command a higher price though these trends are slowly changing and for good reason. Not only do the colors associated with the Tilefish rival the Dartfish, but can hold there own with many other reef fish like the beautiful Flasher and Fairy Wrasses and Anthias'' as well.

The scientific name of the Tilefish is Hoplolatilus. Many aquarists consider the Tilefish as Dartfish and one in the same with certain Goby species due to similarities in body style and behavior. Tilefish are not Gobies, Dartfish are... Dartfish hail from a different family than the Tilefish all together. OK, now that we have that all straightened out lets delve deeper into the world of the Tilefish and their suitability in a captive environment.

Their are eight different species of Tilefish, however, only half of them have made their way into pet shop and on line venues with any regularity. The four species having made any type of appearance in the hobby are the Purple, Flashing, Skunk and Blue Headed Tilefish.

These fish are a timid and delicate fish, especially during the initial introduction into your aquarium and in the presence of any fish that displays a boisterous behavior. Because of this, husbandry and compatibility issues need to be addressed if you plan on experiencing any chance of success with these beautiful torpedo shaped fish. Since Tilefish are a skiddish fish, the observance of them hidding in rock or burying themselves in the substrate for a lengthy period of time is not uncommon. Combining this with the fact that they are notorious jumpers one should maintain a cover on top of their tank though the smallest hole in the cover could prove fatal to the jumper and result in fish jerky on the floor. On the other side of the spectrum, however, and you run the risk of the fish injuring itself by slamming into the cover as a tries desperately to escape. By giving careful consideration to the fish being purchased after the Tilefish and those that are a mainstay, already in your tank, can help to reduce this likelihood.

The larger the tank the better with the minimum size being in the 100 gallon range providing a few pieces of live rock and coral if necessary. A full blown reef biotope is not beneficial to Tilefish as they are strong swimmers that like the openness of an aquarium that mirrors that of their natural environment. A couple pieces of liverock to offer the Tilefish a place of retreat and protection is ideal, again with plenty of room to swim in the pelagic area of your tank.

Tilefish reach a length between 5 to 8 inches in length. Their body style is rather slender and long(torpedo shaped) with a large dorsal fin appendage. Coloration can range from a simple single color to multiple colors and shades of each with contrasting patterns as well. The Flashing Tilefish can change its appearance naturally, right before your eyes offering a cool and unique addition to your aquarium.

Providing a variety of food will aid in the vibrancy and healthy of Tilefish. Initially, you may need to offer live foods and garlic to entice them to eat. I have had success by using artic-pods as an initial food source to gain their participation in the eating process. From their proteinaceous foods like mysis shrimp, formula, flake and small bite sized pieces of krill should work nicely and provide a nutritionally balanced diet. Feeding Tilefish three times a day is the norm and careful observance of them at feeding time is a good habit to get into to ensure that they are, in fact, receiving food that other quicker and agile fish may consume before the Tilefish gets a chance.

The best chance of maintaining this species of fish for any length of time would be to house more than one of these fish. History reflects the fact that solitary Tilefish have a short proven track record in captivity. The purchase of a healthy specimen from your local pet shop or on line venue is also crucial. Ensuring that the fish, has no blemishes, legions, parasite, bacteria or fungal infections, displays normal swimming and breathing patterns and is eating. The careful observance of these potential problems before hand will not only increase the likelihood of your fish being healthy and successful in your aquarium but reduces the chances of your new specimen transmitting a problematic malady to your livestock population. One note regarding Tilefish, many times the collecting procedures are not observed properly and the Tilefish will be captured and brought to the surface of the water too quickly(improper decompression syndrome). This presents a buildup of gas in their bloodstream, like a scuba diver suffering from the bends. The fish will often swim with its head down and tail in the air, laboring to remain stationary in the water column. Their is a way of rectifying this event should it be encountered, however, I won't get involved in that at this time.

Yet another remarkable fish that provides vibrant color, diversity and another piece to the puzzle in recreating an underwater realm as close to that experienced in nature. By taking steps beforehand and providing a stable, stress free environment and the Tilefish can provide years of entertainment and enjoyment.