Time for a Throwdown with Bobby Flay

Any Food Network devotee knows Bobby Flay as the redheaded celebrity chef - no, not Mario Batali - with the distinctive New York accent. He has built his Food Network name on grilled meats and robust southwestern flavors. His television repertoire consists of shows that focus solely on his own cooking, or travel shows, in which he profiles other grilling masterminds.

In Flay's latest endeavor, "Throwdown with Bobby Flay," he gets to indulge his competitive side. In the edgy promos for "Throwdown," we see him with his arms crossed, widened stance, and intimidating stare. In a nutshell, the show's concept can be described best by the famed lyrics, "Anything you can do, I can do better. I can do anything better than you."

The beginning of the program profiles a recognized master of "insert name of food here." Past participants have specialized in anything from jerk chicken, to chowder, to wedding cake, to fish 'n' chips. Meanwhile, Flay and his co-conspirators (i.e. kitchen staff) come up with their own recipe that might - just might - be better.

Now, for the true drama. Flay's unknowing victim may be hosting a party, giving a demo, or just running his or her restaurant on a typical day. Then, all of a sudden, a shiny black hulk of an SUV sidles up to the curb and, surprise, Flay and his assistants are there to crash the party. Flay issues the challenge; his competitor agrees. They shake hands and prepare to do battle.

The true test comes in whether or not Flay's competitor can wipe away the star-struck gaze and deliver that bread 'n' butter recipe that initially caught Flay's eye. Once the two sides are at work, the show becomes a condensed, informal version of "Iron Chef." Each competitor creates his or her dish for the blind taste test. Mishaps, jokes, and mudslinging abound. The judges change from episode to episode, but they are often local chefs. At least one has specific expertise in the dish in question.

As a hungry audience looks on, the judges mull over their decision. Occasionally Flay's amped up interpretations have emerged victorious, but more frequently his competitor's classic recipes have won. The judges announce the winner. Winner and loser embrace in an awkward, congratulatory hug, and then it's time to resume eating. Flay is good-natured about the process. In his other cooking shows he comes across as an intense perfectionist. "Throwdown" showcases his lighter side. He still wants to win, but it's all in good fun.