Timeless Jewelry

nancy panakkal
Jewelry in India is as unique and varied as is its culture, which vastly differs between the north, south and western India. Indian culture is a composite mixture of varying styles and influences, be it the music, the cuisine, languages or dress. But Indians have a predilection for gold. India, Indian women and jewelry are inherently linked.

One would come across various kinds of jewelry art. Kundan, Meenakari, Jadau, Navratan, Pachchikam are notable amongst them. Temple jewelry of India used to adorn the idols of Gods and Goddesses and later was worn by the temple dancers. Gradually the designs became a part of the Indian woman's bridal jewelry trousseau.

Kundan and Meenakari styles of jewelry are the influence of the Mughal dynasty which ruled India from the early 16th century to mid 18th century.It then reached Rajasthan ,which is the hub today. Kundankari is the art of setting gems and stones in gold and silver, while meenakari is the art of enameling the jewelry after setting the gems and stones in gold.

Jadau work involves embedding gems, precious stones, crystal, beads directly into the gold without any adhesive or carvings.

Navratna jewelry has nine auspicious stones viz. pearl, ruby, diamond, emerald, topaz, cat's eye, coral, sapphire, and garnet all used together in a single ornament. Indian astrology believes that the combination of all nine stones ensures the well being of the wearer.

Uncut precious stones and glass are the hallmark of Pachchikam jewelry.These are set in silver and the process of fixing them in the silver involves pressing the edges of the stone or glass into the silver and then the grooves are filed, giving it a crude appearance.

In the north eastern part of India shells, animal claws and teeth are also used in jewelry making, whereas in Kerala, in the southern part of India, elephant hair is embedded in bangles and rings.

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