Tips on Installing or Building a Home Pond or Waterfall

Ponds and waterfalls have been a feature in gardens and homes since the earliest of times. Whether the water is still and mirror-like or moving creating sparkling cascades, gurgling fountains or just gently tumbling over stones, it creates an air of tranquility and provides a peaceful place of relaxation and contemplation.

A water feature can be as large or as small as space permits. Indoors or outdoors you can create and install a water feature to suits your needs. Perhaps you want to attract wildlife, such as butterflies, birds and frogs into your garden, or raise fish and extend the range of plants that you grow with beautiful aquatic plants or maybe just have an inviting, quiet place to sit to enjoy the peace and serenity it offers.

Pond options are plentiful and you don't have to be a tradesman to install one. Many garden centers and plant nurseries have a variety of prefabricated ponds available. By installing a submersible pump you can add the satisfying sound of flowing water and create great visual effect with sprays, waterfalls or fountains.

A preformed fiberglass shell is the easiest type of pond to install. They come in a large range of sizes and designs, usually with two shelves at different levels ideal for growing aquatic plants of varying heights. To install a fiberglass shell you need to dig a level hole to accommodate the shell and secure it.

Flexible rubber-lined pools require a little more effort, but are more versatile especially for irregular shapes with varying depths and offer a wealth of planting possibilities. The liner fits into a dug out level hole that is lined with sand. It extends up beyond the sides, conforming to the shape of the hole. The liner is then trimmed, leaving 18 inches (45cm) beyond the rim.

Choosing the right position for your pond of waterfall is paramount. Firstly, before you dig anything find out where all your underground utilities are, like water pipes. Ideally the site should have easy access to electricity and water; electricity for pumps and water for filling and topping up the pond when need be. Then decide whether you want the pond in clear view of the house or in a more private location for you or for wildlife.

A level, sunny site with shelter from the wind is ideal as water plants need high light levels to thrive. Avoid trees and shrubs that cast deep shade and over-hanging branches and deciduous trees that may pollute the water with falling leaves. Also avoid locations where leaching of fertilizer or pesticide residue into the water is a possibility.

To install a preformed pond you will require:

Preformed pond unit

Bricks

String

Canes

Sand

Shovel

Spirit level

Plumb line

Tape measure

Straight edge

Hose

Rocks

1. After purchasing your preformed pond mark out the shape of the pond in the chosen location. Ideally, if you have a template of the pond lay it on the ground and mark the perimeter with string or dots of spray chalk or pegs. If not, stand the pond open side up and support it with bricks. Place a straight edge across its top from a few different angles and using your spirit level make sure it is perfectly horizontal. Now, using a plumb line hanging over the lip of the pond, mark its perimeter on the ground. Add an extra 12 inches (30cm) all the way round to make it easier to backfill under the mold.

2. Dig out the hole. Measure the depth of the pond from the lip to the marginal shelf and dig the hole to this depth making sure it is level. Use your spirit level for this. Place the unit gently in the hole. You will see the impressions in the ground made by the deep zone. This is your guide for further digging.

3. Dig out the deep zone. To find the depth of the deep zone, place a straight edge across the top of the unit and measure down from several points. Dig the hole at least 2-4 inches (5-10cm) deeper removing sharp rocks and roots as you go along.

4. Check that the pond unit fits into the hole, then remove it, and add a 2-4 inch (5-10cm) layer of soft sand to the bottom of the hole. Rake it and make sure it is level.

5. Do the same with the other remaining horizontal areas of the pond unit, again making sure it is level. Set the pond in place and if necessary remove it to adjust it further. Don't continue on until the pond unit is fully supported and level.

6. Fill the pond with water. Begin by filling the pond with about 4 inches (10cm) of water to keep it stable. Backfill with soil or sand all around the deepest bay making sure it is pressed in firmly. Continue to check that the pond is level at each stage of filling. Keep filling the pond with 2 inches (5cm) of water at a time while backfilling and firming down each layer before adding the next.

7. Finish filling with water and add a layer of rocks, turf or pebbles around the rim to hide the fiberglass lip. Make sure the lip of the pond is well supported by packing the rim beneath with backfill before adding the decorative edging. Vary the size and shape of the rocks to add extra visual appeal.

Aquatic plants not only add instant visual appeal, but assist in keeping the pond's water healthy and clear by adding oxygen and shading the surface, which slows algae growth. Fish are also wonderful to watch and help complete the pond's ecological balance by eating algae and small water animals.

To build a rubber lined pond you will need:

Rubber liner

Underlay

Bricks

Hose

Shovel

Rake

Spirit level

Straight edge

Sand or soil

String

Scissors

Rocks

1. Using a hose, string or some sand mark out the shape of the pond. Drive in some small pegs at regular intervals and using the straight edge and spirit level make sure that all the pegs and the earth around them are level and horizontal.

2. Dig out the entire area to about 9 inches (23cm) deep removing any sharp objects as you go along. The sides can also be slightly sloping outwards. Rake the bottom then mark the deep zone making sure you leave at least a 12 inch (30cm) wide marginal shelf.

3. Dig out the deep zone to at least another 15 inches (38cm) deep. Again, rake the base removing all rubble; sharp and protruding objects.

4. Spread a 1 inch (2.5cm) layer of sand over the base to add extra protection against punctures in the lining. Check again to ensure the pond surface is level. Make any adjustment by adding extra soil or digging some out if need be.

5. It is a good idea to use an underlay as an added precaution prolonging the life of the liner. Have the underlay folded in half; drape it over the hole and starting from the center press the underlay into all the nooks and crannies and contours of the hole, with as few creases as possible.

6. To make it easier to lay the liner have it laid out flat in the sun for an hour or so before hand. Roll it up smoothly then position it on one side of the pond. Begin to unroll the liner slowly being careful not to pull it as this may cause the liner to stretch making it more susceptible to puncture when filled with water.

6. Leave a sufficient overlap around the marginal shelf and fold, tuck or pleat around corners or in creases as neatly as possible. Use bricks to temporarily hold the liner edges in place.

7. Slowly fill the pond with water. The weight of the water will help settle the liner into the shape of the pond so make adjustments by folding and pleating as necessary.

8. Once the pond is full you can remove the bricks from the edges. Trim the liner leaving a 12 inch (30cm) overlap. Edge the pond with rocks, pebbles, bricks of turf. Add your aquatic plants and fish and enjoy.

A small waterfall can be added quite simply to your pond. Not only will the sound of the gentle, trickling water draw you to sit and stay a while but it will also benefit the pond by adding oxygen improving the quality of the water.

To do this you will need three to five step-basins made from natural stone, fiberglass or plastic, a feature object with a water spout and some soil and gravel.

Using the excavated soil from digging the pond, create small mounds to make a gentle gradient. Form steps using a trowel and cover them with a layer of gravel as a firm base for the step-basins and feature object.

The basins are then set on top of the mounds slightly overlapping each other. The water-spout feature will pour into the top basin and the lowest basin should be protruding over the edge of the pond.

Lower a submersible pump into the pond and bury the deliver pipe along one side of the gradient. Attach the delivery pipe to the water spout feature. Now turn it on and enjoy your cascading waterfall.