Tony's Pizza Napoletana - Championship Pizza at Its Best

Ahhh, the never-ending quest for the perfect pizza in San Francisco. Pizza joints abound but native East Coasters constantly complain that West Coast pizza is no good. The search may have ended at Tony's Pizza Napoletana in North Beach, where the lines are long and the pizzas are cranked out of a genuine Italian wood burning stove, usually slung by Tony Gemignani himself, 9 time World Pizza Champion.

World pizza champion?? Tony honed his skill at Pyzano's Pizzeria in Castro Valley, which he owned and operated with his brother, Frank, since 1991. Tony's special talents have won him several accolades, including World Champion Pizza Acrobat, two Guiness Book of World Records ("Biggest Pizza in 2 minutes Continuously Spinning" and "Most Consecutive Rolls Across the Shoulders in 30 seconds"). He shocked the pizza world in 2007 when he won the "Italy Best Pizza STG" in the Neapolitan category at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy, a first for a non-Italian.

A Neapolitan pizza is made in a wood-fired brick oven, which produces a lightly crisped thin crust pizza that still retains some chew. Traditionally topped with rich, creamy, fresh Mozzarella cheese and vine-ripened tomatoes, it bears little resemblance to mass-marketed pizzas found in fast food chains in the U.S. Gas ovens can only reach a maximum heat of 600-650 degrees, which produces a heavier crust, while wood-fired brick ovens hit 900 degrees. In Italy, to protect against the gentrification of traditional foods, the making of Neapolitan pizza is regulated if it carries the STG ("specialità tradizionale garantita", or guaranteed traditional specialty) seal.

Tony's pizzas are cooked in the traditional style, which he sought to emulate after he tasted a real Neapolitan style pizza. He worked hard to master the art, utilizing authentic ingredients from the homeland in Italy. His dreams were almost dashed when he was prevented from installing his Cirigliano Wood Burning oven, which he won in Naples, in Castro Valley due to air quality regulations. He was finally able to achieve his dream of making pizza the traditional way at his newer location in San Francisco, at Washington Square Park.

The tiny place has definitely been discovered by hordes of San Francisco foodies, so expect a bit of a wait most evenings as they don't take reservations. The wait is worth it and Tony is unflaggingly friendly even as we wipes a bead of sweat from his brow as he tenderly hovers at the gaping mouth of flame, sliding pizzas around until perfectly crisped.

Steve Mullen, self proclaimed pizza expert, pronounced Tony's Margherita pizza ($18) sublime, savoring the skim coating of sweet San Marzano tomatoes across the thin crust, hand made with San Felice flour, topped with fresh, soft Mozzarella and basil. We enjoyed the simple pleasure of a minimum of garden-fresh ingredients combined to create a savory delight. Fancy pizzas, including Quail Egg and Speck ($19), and Truffle (Market price) complete with shaved Italian truffles and arugula are special experiences when available. On several visits over the past six months, Tony was in evidence every time, the place was packed and the dishes exquisite.

Tony's is a full service Italian restaurant serving a variety of antipasti (including crispy, tender deep fried green beans), generous salads, pasta, stromboli and calzones. In addition to the Neapolitan style pizza Tony creates hand-crafted classic Italian, American and Sicilian style pizzas baked in a domed gas brick oven, NY flat top gas brick oven or Italian brick oven, depending on the type of pizza. A full bar serves fine Italian and California wine, beer and cocktails.

International Schools of Pizza

For those serious pizza lovers who want to learn to make their own, Tony offers schooling for professional and home chefs through his International Schools of Pizza. All courses, which are offered throughout the year, follow the strict guidelines and theory of the Scuola Italiana Pizzaoli, a certifying body for pizza chefs.

Tony's Coal-Fired Pizza & Slice House

Tony is building his pizza empire with the very recent (August 20, 2010) opening of his third restaurant. Tony's Coal-Fired Pizza & Slice House is located right next door to Tony's Pizza Napoletana, serving, as the name suggests, coal fired pizza and pizza by the slice, in addition to real New York-style Italian sandwiches. Seating is limited to a couple of small tables, but the service is quick and it's a good take-out alternative to the busy full-service restaurant next door. Tony runs back and forth between the restaurants keeping an eye on the 1,000 degree coal-fired oven while he's managing oven operations in the main restaurant.

If you love pizza you can't go wrong with any one of Tony's pizza restaurants.

Information:

Tony's Pizza Napoletana
1570 Stockton St (at Union St)
San Francisco, CA
(415) 835-9888
Open Wednesday - Sunday 12 noon -11pm; Closed Monday & Tuesday
No reservations, but you can come in, put your name on the wait list and explore North Beach-they'll call you on your cell phone when your table is ready

Tony's Coal-Fired Pizza & Slice House
1556 Stockton St
San Francisco, CA
(415) 835-9888
Open Wednesday - Sunday 12 noon -11pm; Closed Monday & Tuesday
Take out and limited seating

Pyzano's Pizzeria
3835 East Castro Valley Blvd.
Castro Valley, CA 94522
(510) 881- 8878
Mon - Thurs: Lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, Dinner 4 - 9pm
Friday: Lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, Dinner 4 - 10pm
Sat - Sun: 12 noon - 9pm
Eat in, take out and delivery

Sources:

Tony's Pizza Napoletana: http://www.tonyspizzanapoletana.com/index.php

International Schools of Pizza: http://internationalschoolofpizza.com/index.php

Pyzano's Pizzeria: http://pyzanospizzeria.com/