Torrey Pines State Reserve in San Diego, California

There aren't many places left along the San Diego coast that is still wild enough to convince you as you walk along a trail that you might be the only hominid walking around for miles. To tell the truth, the presence of the coast guard helicopter that keeps flying up and down the coast a few times an hour doesn't really help you get in the 'all alone in the wild' mood, but, a day spent at Torrey Pines State Reserve is still the closest you can get to being immersed in nature this close to one of America's largest cities.

This 2000 acres plot of land tucked by the ocean between Del Mar and La Jolla is a treasure trove of great view, great swim, great surf, great hike, great biking, and great natural science education. All of that for free unless you arrive in a car, then there's a day-use fee of $8 to park inside the park boundary. It is better to get there by bus (#101 that goes up and down the coast), since there are stops both at the northern entrance to the reserve and at the southern end of it at Torrey Pines GC. Click here to investigate how you can get to Torrey Pines State Reserve by bus.

Click here to see a slide show of my hike across Torrey Pines State Reserve.

Torrey Pines State Reserve is a day-use only park and no overnight camping is allowed. Everything in it is protected, so the rules are: stay on marked trails and path, refrain from smoking or making fire, refrain from bringing in food or drinks (only water bottles are allowed) or pet, and refrain from collecting souvenirs (pebbles, flowers, plants, shells, etc).

The Reserve is named after the Torrey pine (Pinus torreyana), of course, the most restricted and rare pine in North America, only growing naturally here and on Santa Rosa Island off the coast of Santa Barbara (and the Torrey pines there may be a distinct sub-species). Practically all the pines you see here are Torrey pines... with the distinctive yellow wood and 5 needles fascicles. The pines on the northern part of the reserves tend to be bigger than those up on top and close to the ocean cliffs, though (the northern part of the area benefits from more rainfall). The pine nuts are edible, and the native Kumeyaays liked to use the needles to make baskets.

Most of the visitors to this reserve arrive through the north entrance (the only way a car can get in these days) and park at the main parking lot below. There's a good set of flush restrooms there and a ranger office. From there you have easy access to the long stretch of beach with beautiful surf and a lot of water birds. The beach here is rather rough, though, with large pebbles and coarse sand. Those who want more privacy can hike along it to the south, but I would be careful about that if visiting right after a rain. The sandstone cliffs here aren't all that stable and a few people get injured every year from getting hit by collapsing debris. A long hike down the beach will eventually take you to a really cool cliff formation called 'Flat Rock', where there is a trail you can take to the top and eventually to the reserve headquarters. Beyond Flat Rock is the (in)famous Black Beach.... formerly the only nude beach in San Diego (I believe clothing is enforced now, though... in any case, that beach is in the fly path of the paragliders and hang-gliders taking off from Torrey Pines Gliderport () up on the top of the cliff. I suppose they would find it a bit easier to concentrate on flying now than before).

Just across N. Torrey Pines Rd is the Los Penasquitos Lagoon (Salt Marsh)... Also a protected area with a distinctive ecological system. There is a hiking trail into it leading from the little parking lot (with another restroom facility). A lot of interesting waterfowls hang out there. With the current drought, the area is dryer than it used to be, but it is still one of the bigger lagoons in San Diego county.

The Park Road, with its many steep switch-backs on the ascent to the top of the bluff, used to be the main highway through the area. Now that the gentler (and wider) N. Torrey Pines Rd had taken up that task, it is a favorite uphill route for the local cyclists and joggers (it won't be any fun cycling down that thing, though, since the enforced speed limit is 15 mph. You're better off climbing up this thing and then descend back down on N. Torrey Pines Rd). Most of the Reserve's short hiking trails are accessible from this road.

At the top is the Reserve's headquarter, Torrey Pines Lodge, which houses a little museum-ful of great Kumeyaay indians artifacts and stuffed animals. The TP Lodge is well manned by friendly rangers who know just about every plant and animal in the area and love to give you guided nature walks (get here during the weekends for free interpretive nature walks at 10 AM and at 2 PM). You can also pick up many interesting and educational brochures here along with the area's trails map.

There are 6 relatively well maintained hiking trails in the area (no off-road cycling allowed):

- Guy Fleming Trail (2/3 mile loop) is the easiest and most frequented trail that takes you along a pretty level course along the north west area of the reserve. It is well marked with interpretative markers and offers nice view of sandstone formations and great view of the ocean from two observation posts.

- Parry Grove Trail (½ mile loop) is a rather steep and secluded trail for those more interested in the local plants than in the scenery.

From the main trail head from the parking lot on top of the reserve, the trail that leads to the Red Butte formation also branches into 3 separate trails that lead toward the ocean:

- Razor Point Trail (2/3 mile to Yucca Point Overlook) is currently closed under construction. It is one of the most picturesque trails in the system, though. Great views of the area's gorge, wild flowers, eroding cliffs, and spectacularly twisted Torrey pines.

- Beach Trail (3/4 mile to Flat Rock) can use some construction work itself (the ground is rather full of pot holes that are hard on the ankles), but it is also a very panoramic trail that gives you great view of the ocean... and has a steep descend down to the beach via a stairway.

Broken Hill overlook can be accessed from the beach stairway and also from 2 separate trails (Broken Hill south and north) that cut the Park Road well south of Torrey Pines Lodge (no car allowed from the Lodge on, so it takes a bit of walking to get there). The getting to the overlook is really rather boring (unless you are one of those folks who are fascinated by sage brush and chapparals... and occasionally squirrels), but once you get there, the view is worth the hike... And then, of course, you have to walk all the way back.

For those who like to 'hit and run' a park, however, the greatest cheat of the reserve is the 100 yard uphill hike on the stairway that leads you to the High Point Overlook just north of Torrey Pines Lodge. Really awesome 360 degrees view of the area with a good look at Sorrento Valley to the northeast (where I-5 is) and the long stretch of Torrey Pines State Beach and even the cozy hill of Del Mar.

Note: Due to instability of the sandstone bluffs, the Broken Hill and Beach trail systems are always closed during and for at least 24 hrs after a rain).

Torrey Pines State Reserve is opens daily from 8AM - sunset. There is no fee if you aren't arriving by car. If you are, however, the fee is $8 per person. There is no concession stand in the reserve area and no food or drink allowed except for bottled water.

Torrey Pines State Reserve: 12600 N. Torrey Pines Rd, San Diego, CA 92037. Tel (858) 755-2063. Website: www.torreypine.org