Tourists' Beverage Guide to Crete, Greece

Part of the fun of vacation in a foreign land is doing things like the locals do. Part of the misery of being in a foreign land is that tourists don't know what the locals know. Achieve the first and avoid the second with this tourist's guide to beverages in Crete, Greece.

Water

Tap water in Crete is drinkable, and bottled water is readily available at all shops and restaurants. Crete's arid summer weather is part of its attraction, but the 3 month dry spell can lead to water outages. It is wise to have some bottled water on hand 'just in case.' Samaria brand bottled water is produced from a spring in the adorable village of Stilos in the Chania prefecture, making it a good local option. Most restaurants don't automatically serve water; when it is ordered they'll bring bottled water, chilled. If you prefer to drink tap water just ask for a nero apo vrises - which will not be chilled. Ice with water is not automatic - ask for pagakia.

Beer

There are several bottled beers available on Crete. The most common in tavernas are Mythos and Amstel. Mythos is a Greek beer so it's good to try for a little local flavor, but Amstel has a strong following among Cretans. If you want a different brand, there are many imported beers available at the larger groceries.

Wine

There are basically three kinds of Cretan wine. White, red, and the family's red. The last one tastes and looks more like sherry than the red wine we're familiar with. All three are typically served chilled in short, unstemmed glasses. At restaurants you can order a bottle of white or red or you can ask for the house wine. This is usually sold in half liter or liters for quite a bit less than the bottles. There are a few exceptions, but the average bottle of wine is not any better than the house brand - so the only reason to splurge is if you're considering buying the same kind from the grocery store as a souvenir.

Soda

Gerani is a soda bottler located in Crete's Chania prefecture. If you want something a little bit exotic, try gazoza or biral. If you prefer to stay with what you know, Coca-cola is widely available. Soda is served chilled in a bottle with a glass but without ice or straw.

Tsikoudia

At the drop of a hat Cretans break out the tsikoudia, also called raki on the eastern side of the island. This is a traditional alcoholic drink served cold in shot glasses. While most people down it in one go (perhaps preferring to 'get it over with') there are many who sip. The alcohol content varies from a little strong to peels paint strong. It is made from the remains of grapes pressed for winemaking. This 'must' is put into plastic bags in barrels outdoors and allowed to ferment for about a month, after which it is distilled. It's worth trying tsikoudia whenever it's offered - not only because it is polite, but also because each one is different. It would be rude not to join in drinking to the toast - usually ygeia mas - which sounds like 'yammas' and means 'to our health'. But a good host will fill your glass each time you empty it; if you don't wish to overindulge, don't finish your drink until you're ready to leave. It is normal for a restaurant to 'gift' patrons with a few shots of tsikoudia after their meal.

Milk

Regular cow's milk is readily available in Cretan grocery stores in skim, half fat and whole fat variations. But while you're buying milk, look beside the cow's milk section - you will likely find goat's milk and sometimes sheep's milk in small cartons easily identified by the animal shape on the carton. This milk is pasteurized, safe, and tasty.

Fruit Juice

While cartons of juice are available at the grocery store, a much nicer option is to have juice freshly squeezed from locally grown oranges. The sweetness and flavor is incomparable, and you are supporting the local economy. Cretan citrus sometimes struggles commercially, even on the island, because oranges imported from Spain are often cheaper. Family run tavernas often pick their oranges from their family's grove, and it shows in the product. Usually served with a straw, juice temperatures range from tepid to iced depending on the whims of the proprietor. At restaurants, sometimes apple juice is available. Despite the abundance of lemons, real lemonade is very rare.

Coffee

There are enough varieties of coffee available to the tourist on Crete that we must break them into categories.

Greek Coffee
When a Cretan asks for 'a coffee', he is asking for a Greek coffee which is what we'd call Turkish coffee. When a foreigner asks for 'a coffee,' many servers will not assume you want this 'cafe Ellenikos' and will ask for a clarification. If you do want a Greek coffee, specify that. Greek coffee is sweetened while being made, so you must specify if you want it plain (sketo), medium sweet (metrio), or sweet (glyko). Milk is never added and the grounds are left in, so don't drink it to the bottom. Greek coffee is always served with a glass of cold water on the side and usually with a small cookie.

Coffee, not Greek
If you can't bring yourself to forgo your morning cuppa, you'll want to know that what we call 'a coffee' is named 'filter coffee' in Crete. Ask for a cafe filtrou. There is no such thing as coffee cream - Greeks serve filter coffee plain or with milk or (more often) evaporated milk. Sugar will come on the side. Most coffee houses can be trusted to make a fair cup of coffee, but you're rolling the dice at smaller family tavernas. That's part of the adventure! This kind of coffee will also usually come with a small cookie. There is no such thing as a free refill.

Instant Coffee (AKA Nescafe)
If you want decaf or if you simply prefer instant coffee, you will likely be drinking Nescafe. Enough of the locals drink this that the name is sometimes shortened to simply nes. Nes is served like filter coffee, with a cookie, milk and sugar on the side.

Frappe
Made from Nescafe, this cold coffee drink is a staple in the hot summer months. Sugar and milk, if desired, are added while the frappe is being made - so specify when you order. Meh gala is with milk. Sketo means plain and unsweetened, metrio means medium sweet, and glyko means sweet. Like the Greek coffee, frappe is served with a glass of cold water and a cookie on the side. This is one of the few drinks which always has ice and comes with a straw. A word of caution - I once enjoyed my first frappe so thoroughly that I asked for a second, perplexing the waiter. It is not 'common' to drink a second coffee.

This covers the most common beverages served in Crete, Greece. I hope this guide helps you to be confident when navigating the world of beverages while on vacation in Crete, Greece. But if you forget, don't worry - the Cretans will be happy to help.