Traveler's Guide to Athens, Greece!

Athens, Greece is, of course, known as an ancient and beautiful but fractious, disorganized city, often the victim of labor strikes and terrible traffic which often disrupt tourists' plans. The city's 3,200,000 residents proved in their hosting the 2004 Summer Olympics, though, that Athens can offer a truly exceptional experience for tourists. The entire nation put itself to the test and pulled off an Olympics with few disruptions, even in the high security environment required post-9/11. My wife, two friends, and I found out just how great Athens can be!

One knows, of course, this cradle of democracy is old, old! For example, the Acropolis, the 'Sacred Rock of Athens' is one of the most famous sights in the world and dominates the city. A climb to the top of the Acropolis and a tour of the ancient ruins there are the pinnacle, the most memorable part of an Athens visit. The most impressive building atop the Acropolis, the Parthenon, was built from 477-438BC - that's 'BC' - in dedication to the city's patron goddess, Athena Parthenos. It was built almost exclusively of wonderfully durable marble so it stands today as a monument to Greek culture. The monument's four sides are lined with a frieze depicting the 'Procession of Panathenaea', the most formal religious festival of ancient Athens. The frieze contains the images of finely carved gods, beasts, and 360 humans! Over its 2500 years, the turbulence of the area and its bloody sequence of occupations and revolts resulted in the Parthenon's having served as Byzantine and Latin churches and a Muslim mosque. It was even used by the occupying Turks as an ammunition warehouse in 1687 when a Venetian shell tragically caused a tremendous explosion which destroyed much of this fine antiquity! The Acropolis' lesser known Temple of Athena Nike and Propylara were also constructed in the 5th Century BC. Tourists can wander among the buildings but are not allowed to enter them, of course, given their fragility from age, weather, past seismic activity, and the damaging effect of modern air pollution.

The 150 years old Acropolis Museum is nearby, though, for those who want to see examples of the ancient works 'close up'. It holds only stone sculptures from the Acropolis' monuments and the associated onsite excavations. Vases and bronzes removed from the Acropolis are displayed in the city's National Archaeological Museum. For example, the wonderful Caryatids, the statues of young women which supported the south perch of the Erechtheion are on display here.

One quickly learns one fact from any Greek citizen encountered on the Acropolis, something you will hear over and over again. Every Greek is angry many ancient treasures were taken from the Acropolis in the early 19th century to museums throughout the world, particularly those of London. They believe very firmly the 'thief' Lord Elgin robbed them of much of their national heritage and, to this day, Greece campaigns forcefully and often for the return of their treasurers!

Another world famous monument, Hadrian's Arch, is very close to the Acropolis' base, on an ancient street which connected the old Athens with the 'new' Roman section. The arch was built in 131AD in honor of its benefactor, Emperor Hadrian. In its grandeur, it also served as a 'street sign' with an inscription on one side, 'This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus', and on the other side, 'This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus'.

The Temple of Olympion Zeus begun in the middle of the 6th Century BC and completed over 650 years (yes, that's accurate!) is also nearby. The temple today is 'merely' a set of surviving columns with one column lying on the ground. This column fell in 1852! We shall always remember the Temple of Zeus because my wife was reading a tour book as we approached it and she fell to the ground when she stumbled on the uneven path. As she lay unhurt but facedown and 'spread eagled' on the ground, I told her 'You don't have to do that; we're Episcopalians!' She didn't think then that was as funny as I!

The Plaka is the oldest section in Athens, also at the base of the Acropolis. Today it is a place tourists will want to spend a lot of time; its narrow, meandering streets are filled with restaurants, cafes, and tourist shops and residences hundreds of years old. Street musicians, flower sellers, and photographers wander the streets, offering their products and services. The Plaka is certainly a great place to stop in one of the sidewalk cafes for a few sips of the national drink - ouzo - and to watch citizens of the world saunter past! As darkness approaches, many of the restaurants slide their tables into the street to serve their diners wonderful meals of mousaka, pastitsio, and souvlaki. Most of the Plaka's streets are 'pedestrian only' but one should still watch for motorcycles and delivery trucks weaving their ways along the streets.

Syntagma Square or 'Constitution' Square, the most important spot in Greece, is less than two blocks from the Plaka. The national Parliament building was built from 1836-40 and was used as a palace by the first Greek king after the end of the Turkish occupation. It flanks one side of the square, drawing Greeks through the centuries to celebrate, to protest, to cheer, to weep. Beneath the Parliament is the national 'Tomb of the Unknown Soldier' guarded by elite Greek soldiers impervious to efforts to distract them from their duties. Each of these soldiers is well over six feet tall and dressed in a colorful, traditional uniform of tall hat, pleated skirt, and shoes with large red 'pom-poms'. The square fills with tourists every night at 6:00pm to watch the very intricate and impressive 'changing of the guard'.

The national Parliament was originally convened in one of the most historic buildings in the city, the 'Old Parliament Building' on Stadiou Street on a square with a statue of Gen. Theodoro Kolokatronis, the hero of the Revolution of 1821. This building's foundation was laid in 1858 and it served as the Parliament from 1875 to 1932. It is now the National Historic Museum.

Visitors will find Athens to be a wonderful city of ancient themes and reminders so important to the democratic principles we apply in governing ourselves today. It's also a great place for some crisp ouzo accompanied by wonderful Greek cuisine and music!