Traveling in Australia: Adventure and Renewal Down Under

To be completely honest, I wasn't too excited about spending fifteen hours crammed into an economy seat aboard a packed 747. The allure of Australia-that giant red continent segregated from the rest of the world by a vast stretch of ocean-was tempting, but as I was herded into a commuter bus on the LAX tarmac, I had a few misgivings about the journey ahead. As I found my seat and settled in, I consoled myself, assured that less that a day from now, I'd step off this very plane and onto the foreign but welcoming soil of Australia, with a fresh new adventure before me.

My arrival in Australia was less glamorous than I expected; after shuffling groggily off the plane, through customs, and then somehow managing to convince the officials that my trail mix included no illegal components, I stepped outside into a bracing wind. Having departed from a humid, sweaty Southern California the day before, I was a bit taken aback by the chilly Australian winter. Not even that could deter me from collecting my rental car and hurrying off towards my first stop, Melbourne.

Having previously been to Ireland and Canada, I found Melbourne to be a bit like Montreal, or a happy medium between Ireland and America. It was very similar to a typical American city, yet had that European flair that made it uniquely different. Metro trains sliced through the middle of the streets, carrying hordes of people from the suburb-like outskirts to the midst of Melbourne, a fairly clean and welcoming city surrounded by business districts and an open harbor and docklands. Charming would be a fair way to describe the city, yet one could tell that it was all business, an atmosphere equally balanced between a working hustle and a contemplative calm.
One aspect I realized right from the start was that the people of Melbourne were extremely friendly, more so than any other place I visited on my trip. Always willing to lend a hand or provide some insight, they proved themselves to be equal counterparts to their lovely corner of the globe.

A nice drive beyond the city and through the surrounding country took me to the Mornington Peninsula, a fantastic escape and a world of opposites and options. The peninsula stretches out along the Pacific, bearing rolling highlands, pristine beaches, and rocky outcrops and bluffs. This is a nature-lover's paradise, a finger of land that houses a number of separate towns both inland and coastal, from humble mountain villages to bustling tourist stops with seaside inns and quirky shops. My home for the few days I spent in this oasis was the charming town of Arthurs Seat, situated atop a winding mountain road with vistas to die for. A quick drive from the white sandy beaches below brought me to a shady, almost mystical area of hidden pubs, fresh local markets, and a surplus of gardens and giant hedge mazes. Kangaroos and koalas were a daily sight among the forest undergrowth, and at night the stars shone blindingly bright above. I didn't possibly think I could find a more astounding area in Australia, but my next stop was just as fantastic, if not better.

Another climate shock awaited me four hours to the north (by plane of course; Australian cities are so spaced out that travelers must move around the country by plane or face days of lonely, deserted roads). The brisk Melbourne air was replaced by a balmy, warm breeze in the tropical northern town of Cairns. I knew I was in a completely new environment when the plane touched down among a vivid green valley, surrounded by miles of sugar cane fields and crystal rivers running to the sea. Beyond those frothy breakers was one of the most magnificent natural creations on Earth, the Great Barrier Reef.

Another day, another rental car, this time a dark sedan that took my on a long and winding journey along the coast, passing thatched roof huts tucked into small turn-ins fronting perfect beaches. Narrow dirt roads branched off occasionally, venturing off into the brambly green undergrowth of the rainforest. Here and there a roadside stand sold fresh fruit or drinks, or signs advertised crocodile river tours or sea kayaking, but mostly the road unspooled solitarily before me, wrapping its way along the rugged edge of the Earth, dodging huge rocks and shaded by overgrown palms.

Just as I was growing weary of the road's endless contortions, I reached by destination for the next few days, the breezy town of Port Douglas. The quintessential tourist stop, it featured a ton of small hotels, and few larger resorts, an absolutely stunning harbor and a breathtaking beach. Aptly named Four Mile Beach, the barren breadth of sand unrolled smoothly from the tip of Port Douglas down toward the quieter neighborhoods of the city.
Captain Cook Highway, the rambling road that had taken me from Cairns, continues north to the lush Mossman Gorge, where impeccable trails wind throughout the rainforest and over the Gorge's stream, which is a lovely place to cool off after a long hike. Inland from the Gorge is the Daintree Rainforest, a wonderland of towering trees, ancient plants, and abundant wildlife. A trip across the river aboard a cable-propelled ferry is a must, just be sure to keep an eye out for crocodiles!

If those very creatures peak your interest, a number of companies operate crocodile and wildlife spotting river tours. I climbed aboard a small boat midway through my stay and settled back to watch the pastoral landscape around me unfold. While we did see a few crocs, as well as a number of birds, snakes, and cows, the surroundings were the real meat of the venture. Bare, rolling hills flanked by gnarled trees and shady hollows gave way to thick rainforest, trees branching out over the water in some places. I was rendered breathless at the purity and sheer beauty of the environment around me, and I realized that any plane ride was worth this natural splendor.
Lucky for me, another short hop awaited me once I wrapped up my time in Port Douglas. After a leisurely bike ride through the city and a day trip out to see the reef, I boarded another plane to my final destination, the veritable cherry atop my Australian sundae, Sydney.

Being one of those towns that is discussed as a major point on the world map, such as New York or London, I expected great things from Sydney, and was quite frankly blown out of the water. Carrying equal parts history, modern class, and humility, Sydney proved itself to be on par with all those great cities of the world. Not only did it feature towering skyscrapers and a buzzing port, it had enough small courtyards, welcoming cafes, and cultured districts to make it more human. It wasn't some grand behemoth of cement and noise like New York can be. Sydney had quiet harbor-side parks, the iconic opera house, fascinating inlets and wharves, and what I considered to be its most distinguishing landmark, the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Spanning what may be the most beautiful harbor in the world, the bridge grandly marks the center of a most magnificent city.

Being a major world city, many people don't realize that Sydney is so much more than that; a short ferry ride from Circular Quay transports one to another dimension, the beach towns. The massive harbor is constantly criss-crossed by Sydney's signature light yellow and hunter green ferries, some double-ended for quick turnaround. These go from the main hub in the city to numerous stops throughout the harbor, including my favorite point, Manly Beach. Here, time slows down, and it is very easy to forget that this quaint ocean-side town is a brief ferry ride away from the city. A wide beach proffers set after set of meticulous waves, with dozens of surfers dotting the bright blue water. Storied surf shops and open cafes line the streets, welcoming in locals, tourists, and a fresh ocean breeze. Hillsides dotted with houses overlook the crescent beach, and I realize this would be an easy place to simply park my bags and forget about that place I call home, almost 3,000 miles away.

But, as every journey must, mine had to end, and I sadly turned my back on Manly Beach and headed across the harbor, gazing admiringly out beyond the headlands and into the vast Pacific, knowing I'd soon be hovering miles above that same blanket of deep blue water, heading away from the magic of Australia. This time, I didn't mind the tedious ride ahead of me, knowing that it would bring me own step closer to my eventual return to the land down under, a place that I knew I wouldn't be able to resist. There is something so comfortingly familiar about Australia, yet its endless adventures and foreign flair are enough to keep one occupied for a lifetime.