Travels in Tokyo: a Visit to Taishakuten Temple

Maiko, my travel guide, picked me up at the hotel in Tokyo at 8:30 a.m. for today's adventure. We boarded the train at Shinjuku Station. Switching trains 4 or 5 times, we arrived at Shibamata 45 minutes later. On the way, we passed many apartment buildings, built quite closely together. They appeared tiny. Many of them had a tenement look to them--very small, cramped, and high-rise. Most had clotheslines heavy with clothes on the back porch/deck areas.

Upon arriving in Shibamata, it was apparent it was an older neighborhood. Decrepit-looking buildings were within sight of the train station. After disembarking the train, we trudged up a steep, stone road lined with various open-air shops and stalls. Known as Taishakuten Mall--the vendors sold cheap toys, handcrafted items, small carved wooden objects--and large ones, too. Buddhist trinkets and tokens, Shinto objects, fans, teas, spices, handmade noodles, various other food items, and sweets could be purchased.

Out of breath, we approached the top of the hill. The road opened up to a breathtaking scene. And there it was--Taishakuten Temple. A Nichiren Buddhist temple, it is believed to be over 300 years old. Nichiren is a Buddhist sect established over 750 years ago in Japan. A beautiful and incredibly majestic sight, the temple seemed perched on that hill.

On the Temple's front lawn, several small children wandered near their parents. According to Maiko, it was a Day of Blessing for 3 and 5 year olds. So parents accompanied their children to temple that day, all dressed in their finest kimonos and clothing, seeking blessings from the Buddhist monks. The dark black hair of the children gleamed in the sunshine. It was perfectly styled. Excited to see the little Japanese citizens in their finest duds, I took several pictures, with parents' permission, of course.

Most remarkable were the incredibly lovely textiles of the kimonos. Amazing colors--brilliant hues and subtle tones--were displayed in remarkable patterns I'd never seen before. It must be true that the most beautiful textiles in the world are made in Japan. Boys and girls alike were impeccably groomed and styled. Some of the boys were in dark, more traditional-looking suits with short pants.

We gingerly approached the stairs to the temple and removed our shoes at the top of the stairs. We grabbed plastic bags for our shoes and carried them with us. Then, Maiko and I put 5 yen coins into a box and made a wish. A solemnity existed in the air right then, as we stood in front of that old coin box where millions before us have also stood.

Then, we walked around in the open air temple room where it was permitted. Inside, parents and kids sat on tatami mats facing the front of the temple. Along the outer walls were tables set up with monks selling religious items and postcards. Dressed all the same in what looked like black pajamas, the monks, with shaven heads, sold their wares to the temple's steady stream of visitors.

Quite unexpectedly, I noticed a short, open tunnel near the front of the temple room. And there it was--a beautiful, rather large, gold Buddha. Although visitors were not allowed to go near it, the effect was palpable even from a distance. What an incredible aura it had! Peace, serenity, grace. I will never forget the look of it, nor the feel of the air surrounding it, all the way up toward the front of the temple, where no one could go. Shiny. Larger than life. Truly awe-inspiring.

Reluctantly exiting the temple room, we walked out and put our shoes on. I took more pictures of the temple and the children celebrating Blessing Day with parents. The incense barrel outside the front of the temple beckoned. Maiko demonstrated how to direct the incense smoke toward areas of our bodies we wanted to heal. Maiko waved the smoke to her head to "be smarter". I waved it near my stomach to "cure" a liver ailment. I then directed the smoke toward my head, also to improve my intellect.

Then, we set off, back down Taishakuten Mall--the street of merchants' stalls. We shopped our way back to the train station. One merchant, an old woman, offered free cups of tea. Appearing light brown, the taste was weak and unremarkable.

As we walked back toward the train station, we admired the beauty of the day--sun shining, a crisp breeze blowing. The visit to Taishakuten Temple was an awesome, unforgettable experience. The icing on the cake was the sight of all the sweet Japanese children, looking regal in their finery. I'd say it was a Blessing Day for everyone.

Reference

Wa-shoi website. Experience Japan. 2007. Found at http://en.wa-shoi.com/?page=100034 .