Traverse City, Michigan Highlights

"Ah, God's country." That is how many a local will describe their little neck of the Northern Michigan woods, and you can definitely see the resemblance to an eden, if your particular version includes beaches, slopes, rivers, wildlife, coupled with such amenities as world-class golf and an indoor waterpark. Traverse City, Michigan caters to the summer crowd, and then to the autumn crowd, and then, well, you get the point.

I spent considerable time in this lovely town among the bays as a resident and a vacationer, and I always get a little geeked every time I arrive, and catch that first glimpse of the sparkling blue waters. Traverse City sits at the base of Old Mission Peninsula, and is perched on the easy side of the base of Leelanau Peninsula, with water water everywhere, so needless to say, there are plenty of beaches and scenic drives. Traverse is a sports lovers dream, with fishing, golf, hiking, swimming and boating, biking, kayaking, and even kiteboarding for the more adventurous. If you are the more sedientary type, the beach is also nice for catching up on your summer reading. Like to shop? You can find a walkable district in the downtown area that offers the more touristy fare, like fudge, to more uniquely Michigan gifts and wares.

First things first, where can you stay while visiting? Traverse City lodging runs the gamut. There is the posh Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, which also just happens to have a Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course, The Bear. If you have kids, there is no better hotel-style option than the Great Wolf Lodge, as it has an indoor water-park. There are tiny little 10-room beachfront hotels, as well as the major chains. A better option yet may be a bed and breakfast, or my favourite, renting a cottage for a week, as I like the more independent method of vacationing. Obviously, the cottage or cabin is pricier to rent during high-season (the typical Memorial Day to Labor Day span), but there is a wide range for all price ranges. There is even a service that will stock that cabin for you before you arrive.

Now, what to do? This depends on what you happen to find fun, but Traverse City is where you are lucky. Traverse offers a nice wide-range of activities, from antiquing for the grandparents to snowboarding for the teens. One thing you can't do just anywhere is touring the wineries. Between the two peninsulas, there are upwards of twenty wineries, and some of the wine being produced in this area is winning awards. The microclimate is much like Alsace, so reislings and gewurztraminers are big, but some very nice things are being done with some lesser known grapes as well. L.Mawby is a standout, as he produces mostly sparkling wine. Others to stop in and have a tasting include Blackstar Farms, Shady Lane (Leelanau Peninsula) and Peninsula Cellars (Old Mission). Even if the wine is just alright, there is something very cool about hanging out in vineyards, and I really like those sweet little crackers.

The dining scene in Traverse has changed immensely, and has quite the budding little stars with upstarts like Trattoria Stella. This italian restaurant is in the basement of what in a previous life had been a state-run mental hospital, which is now being developed into retail and residential space. If you don't mind a drive, there is the venerable Tapawingo, consistently rated one of the, if not the, best restaurants in the state. If you prefer more casual fare, there are umpteen places around town for burgers and pub fare, most of them quite good, it really comes down to location.

The water is obviously a draw for Traverse City. You can charter or make friends with someone with a boat and head out for big water, or you can slide into some waders and check out the local rivers, the Betsie and the Boardman. Like to sail? You can rent sailboats, or you can catch a ride on the Manitou, a restored "tall ship", that you can even book for an overnight stay. There is also a tall ship that serves as a nature school for kids over the summer. Kayaking is big, or canoeing if you prefer, and due to the windy conditions of the bays, kiteboarding and windsurfing are popular and gaining a bit of notice from the rest of the world.

Traverse City is not just a summer town, however, as I wouldn't want you to only get that impression. There are several ski resorts and hills in the area, not mountains, mind you, but big enough to get your adrenaline pumping. Cross-country and telemarking are great reasons to get out on a sunny winter day, and snowshoeing is always an option. Snowmobiles are a nice thing to have out in the country, whether you are visiting or relocating, as the snow gets deep in these parts, but if you enjoy winter, you can't ask for much more snow in order to be happy. And if you really like winter, there are plenty of lakes in the area to icefish.

Traverse City is also an autumnal destination, for those people that like to drive around and look at the leaves turning, people like my parents. The area has lots of country lanes, and as the area is quite hilly, you can catch some spectacular views and vista, even from the backseat with your ipod on. But better yet, the salmon and steelhead start to run this time of year, so the rivers are the place to be. If you can swing it, venture further south to the Manistee River, which gets a goodly amount of fish urging to spawn. Note to the reader, though, Salmon fishing is a lot harder than it looks, and the fish can get up to thirty or fourty pounds, add water to that, and let's just say, it takes a lot to get a fish that wants to procreate and then die out of the water and into the boat.

But if you prefer shopping to the great outdoors, there is downtown Traverse City. Lots of stores, restaurants, and it is quaint and pretty, and the water is right there. Further afield are cute little towns with their own cute little shops and restaurants, so it may be wise to use Traverse City as a base and an excuse to explore both peninsulas. You really won't be sorry.