Treats In and Near Oaxaca

I have one problem with Oaxaca as a destination. It offers the tourist too many choices!

So here's a short list culled from my recent repeat visit to Oaxaca and nearby day trips west of the city. On a first trip, visits to Monte the Santo Domingo Church and the adjacent cultural center next the former convent would surely be on the list. From the Cultural Center, you can look down on or arrange a visit to its botanical garden.

CHAPULINES: The famous fried grasshoppers sold by market women outside the markets south of the Zocalo. Like potato chips, they're crispy and fried. After trying a sample, you'll understand why they are so popular.

TLAYUDAS: These large thin crisp tortillas come slathered with black bean paste topped with dribbles of Oaxaca cheese and pieces of tomato. These energy boosters are a good reason for going into the 20 de noviembre market.

BOWLS OF HOT CHOCOLATE: Another Oaxaca market specialty, priced the same price whether made with milk or water. The water version tastes more intense, the milk version is the more nutritious ut either will delight a chocoholic.

TEOTITLAN: My guess is you'll lose your heart to this village with its simple street plan and friendly residents, many of them weavers who will invite you in to watch them creating rugs and show you what they have on hand. There are also shops that carry the work of many weavers. Know that rugs come in many designs and qualities, some made with natural dyes, some not. Rug prices vary, in part with the fame of the weaver.

SATURDAY MARKET DAY IN TLACOLULA: There's a weekly cycle of market days around the city of Oaxaca. The Tlacolula market, filling the main streets of the town, combines well with a trip to the archaeological sites of Yagul or Mitla. You'll see Tepate (Tepache) being ladled out. On a hot day, a pause that refreshes even without knowing its ingredients. The street market is a fine place to stroll among the local people and tourists, whether just looking or on a serious hunt for a basket or other craft item.

YAGUL: Less well-known than Mitla, this Zapotec and Mixtec ceremonial site sits on a hilltop 4 kilometers by bus or car from Tlacolula. Best seen early in the day or late afternoon to avoid the mid-day heat. The "floor plan" of the ceremonial buildings is interesting in itself, the view from the site over the surrounding plain outstanding. Arriving at the nearest bus stop is easy but plan to walk in a mile.

HATS: If you will be in the Oaxaca sun a lot, you'll be able to choose from a wide selection offered by the hat vendors in the Benito Juarez market. Prices range from 20 pesos to over 300.

AGAVES IN FRONT OF THE SANTO DOMINGO CHURCH: By all means go inside this monumental baroque church with its gold and white interior, but also pause to notice the beautifully-arranged bed of agaves, a plant important in the Mexican "diet" for millennia as the primary ingredient of mezcal. Along the road west of Oaxaca you'll see many mezcal factories with their product for sale.

INSTITUTE OF GRAPHIC ARTS: The artist Francisco Toledo's gift to his city. Here you will be able to take as little or as much time as you like to pore over first-rate art books from his collection. Temporary exhibits of artwork also on display.

SWIMMING: In a city that can be very hot, it's good to know a place to cool off. One of the less expensive options is the pool at La Villada Inn at the north edge of the city, open to non-guests for 50 pesos.