Trip Review: Glacier Bay National Park, Gustavus Alaska

Planning a trip to Gustavus, Alaska and Glacier Bay National Park takes a little bit of effort, but is well worth it! The scenery is beautiful and the people are friendly. . The 'town' of Gustavus consists of a mercantile, gas station (no attendant - credit cards only), Homeshore Café (not open Sunday or Monday) and a liquor store (open Monday - Saturday, 4pm -7pm). There is also a library, where wireless internet is available (be prepared to sit outside in the parking lot).

Getting there: Gustavus can only be reached by plane, boat or a long hike in, as there are no roads outside of the 'town'. Because of limited flexibility and time, we chose to fly on Alaska Airlines from Seattle to Juneau, then on to Gustavus. The flight from Juneau to Gustavus is all of 15 minutes at a cost of about $199 per person (in 2008). The Alaskan Air flights run daily and from what we are told only operates from around June 1 through September 1, depending on when Memorial Day and Labor Day fall. Other options that we did not research are air taxis, which offer a lot more flexibility and the ferry from Juneau, which only operates 1-2 days per week. There are also 4-5 cruise ships that spend a day in the Glacier Bay area, but you do not get off the ship here.

Accommodations: The accommodation options are limited, but there are many B & B's in Gustavus. We used www.gustavus.com and www.visitglacierbay.com as our primary resources, as well as word of mouth. We chose to spend 3 nights at the Glacier Bay Lodge which is where most of the kayaking and glacier tours operate from. We also spent one night 'in town' at Aimee's Guesthouse. In 2008, transportation from the airport to Glacier Bay Lodge can be arranged through the lodge and was $12.00 per person. A taxi from the lodge into 'town' was $15.00 per person.

Glacier Bay Lodge was comfortable and the food was surprisingly good! We were there on the last weekend of the season, so many of the supplies had run out, but the chefs did a good job in creating appetizing meals with what they had. Halibut and salmon were always on the menu. The rooms were simple, but comfortable with 2 double beds. There were about a dozen rooms that face the have a true water view (no other rooms or buildings in front). There is a fireplace and free wireless internet in the main lodge and dining area. We were disappointed that the deck wasn't larger, but we did experience a beautiful sunset one night. There are also nightly programs and daily walks by the National Parks Service.

Aimee's Guest House is located about a mile from the one restaurant, gas station and mercantile. Aimee has a handful of 1-speed bikes that you can use to peddle into town to get a few groceries, have dinner or head to the pier for your whale watching adventure. The rooms were comfortable, have a small kitchen and overlook a meadow and creek.

Dining: Glacier Bay Lodge had good food and variety and is worth a stop even if you are not staying there. The Homeshore Café had a decent pizza, but also offers sandwiches and salads. Other options that we did not try and are near town are the Bear's Nest B&B and Café and the Gustavus Inn. We purchased groceries at the mercantile to prepare a light lunch one of the days. The prices were high and limited, so if you can bring a few groceries from Juneau, it is recommended.

Activities: Wildlife and scenery are the highlights in Alaska! Most activities can be booked through the Glacier Bay Lodge or any of the local B& B's. A day tour out to Glacier Bay is a must! Not only do you see glaciers, there is the opportunity to see whales, sea lions, sea otters, puffins, moose and bear! The tours operate out of Bartlett Cove at Glacier Bay Lodge. Be sure to bring binoculars, a camera and warm clothes, including a hat and gloves. Although you can stay inside, the wind off of the water makes for a chilly day if you want to get out on deck for a better look.

Kayaking is also a must. We did a half day kayaking tour in Bartlett Cove. We had calm waters, sunny skies and a quick glimpse of a harbor porpoise passing by. There are also day and overnight trips that can be arranged -guided and unguided. Experienced or not, it is worth trying - the peace and quiet of nature surrounds you.

Hiking is always an option in Alaska and there are several trails near Glacier Bay Lodge. Just be alert to the bear and moose and give way to them. We were only fortunate to see one black bear crossing our path at the lodge, but others saw many on their hikes. The guided hike from the lodge gives the opportunity to try many of the wild berries and learn about the area.

Whale watching was a highlight! We arranged our tour through Aimee at the guesthouse and took the Great Sea for our day with the whales. The Great Sea is a catamaran, built by the captain and it accommodates 6 passengers and 2 crew members. As we headed out, it was foggy and we thought it would be a disappointing day of not being able to see the humpback whales. Were we delighted when the fog cleared and we could see, hear and smell the whales all around us! Spending about 4 hours in the Icy Strait, we saw more whale tails and spouts than imagined! There were pods of 3-6 whales spouting and diving together. At one point we thought a log was floating by until it breached 3 times about 30-50 feet from the boat. You can also kayak with the whales, which we did not do.

Also linked within the content, here are links to photos from this trip:
http://www.associatedcontent.com/slideshow/7130/alaska_juneau_and_mendenhall_glacier.html

http://www.associatedcontent.com/slideshow/7328/glacier_bay_national_park.html

http://www.associatedcontent.com/slideshow/7737/humpback_whales_in_gustavus_alaska.html

http://www.associatedcontent.com/slideshow/7829/gustavus_alaska_wildlife_and_scenery.html