Tswalu: Where the Rich and Famous Go to Enjoy Nature

Ever since I saw the movie The Gods Must Be Crazy I've been fascinated with southern Africa's Kalahari Desert. I hate traveling in large group tours, though, so I'd missed it until my employer allowed me to accept an invitation from the Brenthurst Foundation to attend a two-day conference at Tswalu Lodge and Game Reserve, a private facility owned by the Oppenheimer family. The $700 per day conference fee was a bit steep, but it was worth it to be able to share ideas on economic, social, and political development in southern Africa with like-minded colleagues, and it gave me a chance to fulfill a lifelong dream. In addition to getting a once in a lifetime chance to see this amazing ecosystem up close, I also got a glimpse at how the rich and famous live.

A Brief History of Tswalu

Tswalu is located in the southern Kalahari Desert in South Africa, a two-hour flight from Johannesburg. It was established originally by Stephen Boler, a British entrepreneur, as a private hunting reserve. When Boler died in 1998, his will stipulated that Nicky Oppenheimer, heir to the De Beers diamond fortune, should have first right to purchase the land. Oppenheimer, an avid conservationist, bought Tswalu and immediately ended hunting, focusing instead on conservation activities to 'restore the Kalahari to itself.' To keep from over stressing the ecosystem, no more than 20 guests can be in residence in Tswalu at any one time.

The Price Tag is High

Of course, for those not wealthy enough to own their own private jets which can land at Tswalu's landing field, the $700 round trip airfare from Johannesburg's private terminal ($900 from Cape Town) further limits access. Lodging rates aren't cheap either. While I thought $700 per day for the conference was steep, I was floored when I learned that rates for regular visitors start at $1,000 per day for double occupancy of the lodges at one of the two camps, $1,300 for single occupancy, and a bit over $2,000 per person per day for the family suite which will accommodate four people.

If you're popping the two grand per day - actually eight, since there have to be four of you - you get a private vehicle and dedicated personal guide and tracker. Other visitors have to pay around $350 per day for this service.

In all fairness, though, I have to point out that for the high price, you get first class service. Food, drinks, two game drives per day, walking safaris, baby-sitting, laundry and valet services, are all included; in other words, you pay a king's ransom for truly regal treatment.

Tswalu is part of the Diamond Route, a string of conservation projects supported by De Beers and the Oppenheimer family, which provides visitors and researchers access to some of South Africa's endangered ecosystems to learn about their wildlife and how conservation projects work. They also work to educate local communities on how to balance livelihood with preserving the natural environment. Tswalu, for instance, supports a local community of over 1,000 people, most of whom work at the resort, with health care and education.

While it might be popular to think of the extremely wealthy as idle people who contribute very little to the world, Tswalu and the Oppenheimers contradict that bit of urban legend. If you can afford it, this is a must-see should you travel to South Africa.

Tswalu Kalahari

+27 (0) 53 781 9331

Email: res@tswalu.com