Turks and Caicos Islands

As the weather starts to turn cold, my thoughts inevitably turn to warm sunshine, brightly colored flowers, swaying palm trees, and crystal blue waters. My favorite place to go in order to get a healthy dose of all of the above is the little-known Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI) in the British West Indies.

I originally became interested in this small chain of islands while doing genealogical research on my family heritage, but once I actually visited the islands, I became slightly obsessed with its unassuming charm and appeal.

If you're looking for a tourist hot-spot with lots of partying and bar-hopping, the Turks and Caicos is probably not for you. If you're looking for quiet relaxation and peaceful beach-combing, it just may be the perfect destination.

Island Details

Turks and Caicos Islands consist of 40 islands, only 8 of which are inhabited. The country has 230 miles of unspoiled beaches (voted best tropical beaches in the world by Conde Nast) and the third largest reef system in the world packed with marine life.

The islands are located 575 miles southeast of Miami, Florida, 30 miles south of the Bahamas and 90 miles north of the Dominican Republic. The main islands consist of two groups separated by the Columbus Island Passage: The Turks Group, which includes Grand Turk and Salt Cay, and the Caicos Group, which includes West Caicos, Providenciales, North Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos.

Grand Turk and Salt Cay offer history with great Bermudian architecture and a rustic charm as well as some of the best diving and probably the most "relaxing" time you will ever have.

Middle Caicos and North Caicos represent the best of the environment, with lush green woodlands, the biggest cave network in the Caribbean on Middle Caicos, cottage pond and flamingo pond in North Caicos and a vast range of plant life and birdlife.

South Caicos is the center for fishing, with lobster and conch exported from the islands, the historic Cockburn Harbour and the natural phenomenon of the boiling hole. This small yet friendly island offers many secluded beaches with awe inspiring views of the turquoise waters and surrounding islands.

Providenciales is the most well known of the Turks and Caicos Islands and is the center of the tourism industry with a wide range of hotels, restaurants, attractions and facilities.

Island History

Originally settled by the Lucayan and Taino Indians, the history of the Turks and Caicos islands is rich and varied. According to the turksandcaicostourism.com website, "Turks is a reference to the indigenous Turk's head cactus and Caicos is from the Lucayan term 'caya hico' meaning string of islands."

My TCI ancestors were originally from England, then migrated to Bermuda, and then finally settled on Grand Turk in the Turks and Caicos islands in the late 1700's and early 1800's in order to profit from the salt trade. Once the salt trade became obsolete, some migrated back to Bermuda and some went to Australia. The fact that many of my ancestors were born in the Turks and Caicos Islands makes me an official "Belonger," in island lingo.

Although the salt fields are still visible even today, the biggest industry now on TCI is in commercial conch farming. Taking a day trip to the Caicos Conch Farm is definitely a must-see attraction. You can see the conch in all stages of development, at the beautiful farm lying along the picturesque coast of Grand Turk.

Walking along the old back streets of TCI, discovering history along the way in all the buildings (and especially churches), you come to truly respect this country and these people for their wonderfully laid back and positive view on life.

For more on the history of TCI, check out the history page on http://www.turksandcaicostourism.com.

Grace Bay Accommodations

Grace Bay lies along the northern coast of Providenciales, and is arguably one of the most beautiful beaches anywhere. I've personally stayed at three of the hotels on Grace Bay: Sibonné, Ocean Club and the Royal West Indies Resort, as well as The Meridian Club on Pine Cay.

We stayed at the Sibonné (http://www.sibonne.com/) in November of 2002. This was our very first trip to the Turks and Caicos Islands, and we had no idea where to go, what to do, or where to stay. The Sibonné turned out to be a "boutique" type hotel, with beautiful rooms and a beautiful beach -- but not much as far as amenities go. There is a restaurant but it had limited hours that it was open, and there was no vending machine or even a gift shop in which to find food. For visitors who have been to TCI many times and are fully versed on where to go and what to do, the Sibonné may be a great option, but for visitors brand new to the islands I would recommend a different hotel that is more inclusive and offers more amenities.

For our second trip to TCI in October of 2003, we stayed at the Ocean Club Resort (http://www.oceanclubresorts.com/). This hotel is a great family hotel, with great rates and great amenities, and is also close to a shopping plaza and within walking distance to restaurants (stand-alone and at neighboring hotels). The staff was very friendly and helpful, and the rooms were very modest and comfortable. I highly recommend Ocean Club. (Note: There are two Ocean Club resorts, Ocean Club and Ocean Club West. When we were there in 2003 Ocean Club West was undergoing construction and we were not able to see it at all, so our stay was at the main Ocean Club Resort which is on the eastern side of Grace Bay.)

In December of 2005 we went back for our third trip to TCI and had a reservation to stay at The Meridian Club Resort on Pine Cay, which is a tiny 800 acre private island just a short plane or boat trip from Provo. Our flight arrived late though and we missed our plane for Pine Cay (the inter-island planes do not operate after dark), so The Meridian Club made a reservation for us at the Royal West Indies Resort (http://www.royalwestindies.com/) on Grace Bay, until we could catch the next flight to Pine Cay the following morning. Of all the places we stayed on Grace Bay, I would have to say this was my absolute favorite resort hotel. The rooms were huge and beautiful (with full kitchens), their restaurant (the Mango Reef) has a wonderful staff and delicious food, their beach is amazing, and the landscaping and pool is one of the most beautiful scenes I've ever seen (especially at night when it's all lit up). We were actually a bit disappointed when we had to leave the following day for our short trip to Pine Cay.

The Meridian Club (http://www.meridianclub.com/) is an all-inclusive resort where your meals and most of your activities are included in the price of your stay. The most important thing to realize about a stay on Pine Cay is that you have to really want to truly get away in order to enjoy yourself. There are no telephones in the rooms, nor televisions or radios. It is absolutely peaceful and quiet, and they want it to stay that way! I believe that children are only allowed at certain times during the year. There is an "Internet Café" that in reality is a closet with an old computer set up that you have to sign up on a short waiting list in order to use. This computer feels like the only link to the outside world once you're on Pine Cay. Our stay at The Meridian Club was one of the most relaxing and peaceful weeks of our entire lives.

There are many other options available for places to stay during your visit. There are many exclusive resorts, privately-owned cottages that are available for rent (complete with staff), as well as town-homes, or even camping sites. No matter what your comfort level as far as accommodations go, you're sure to find something just right for you.

For complete hotel options currently available on Turks and Caicos, visit TripAdvisor's TCI page at http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g147395-Turks_and_Caicos-Hotels.html.

Island Attractions/Activities

When you've had your fill of relaxation and quiet, you can venture outside and enjoy some of the island's many activities. Here is a small sampling:

• Silver Deep for deep sea diving, snorkeling, fishing, etc. (http://www.silverdeep.com)

• Provo Golf Club (http://www.provogolfclub.com)

• Coral reef

• Middle Caicos caves

• Sailing

• The Hole

• Day-trip excursions to other islands

• Caicos Conch Farm

• Grand Turk Museum (http://www.tcmuseum.org)

• Whale migration (http://www.turksandcaicoswhalewatching.com)

• Iguana Island (on Little Water Cay)

• Cheshire Hall (old cotton plantation)

• Grand Turk Lighthouse (http://www.tcmuseum.org/landmarks/grand_turk_lighthouse)

• JoJo the dolphin

• Bird watching (http://www.turksandcaicosbirdwatching.com)

• Camping (http://turksandcaicos-guide.info/accommodations/camping.and.eco.tourism)

Getting There

You would think for such a tropical and remote-feeling destination that it would take a long time to get there, but for most of you, you'd be very wrong. TCI is a short two and a half hour flight from New York, and only an hour from Miami. Direct flights are offered from 14 different locations, including Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Atlanta, Charlotte, NC, Philadelphia, New York, Boston, Toronto, Montreal, and even London (though that one will take you eight hours).

According to http://www.turksandcaicostourism.com/go/en/by-air.html, "The Turks and Caicos Islands currently have 2 full service international airports, Providenciales and Grand Turk, and limited entry facilities in North and South Caicos. All other islands have domestic airports except for East and West Caicos, which are uninhabited (an airstrip is currently under construction on West Caicos to serve the Ritz Carlton resort being developed there)."

Providenciales is the main airport used when arriving to the islands, and from Provo airport you can then easily take commuter flights to the other smaller islands. Remember that as of January 8, 2007, all US citizens visiting TCI must be in possession of a valid US passport.

Everyone arriving via international flights (including from the U.S.) and connecting to any of the other islands through the Providenciales airport must first clear immigration and customs and claim their baggage before going to their connecting flight. This is important to remember when planning travel times, since the smaller airports do not operate after dark.

Another fun option that has just recently become available for making your way to TCI is by taking a cruise. Carnival Cruise just recently built a port of call on Grand Turk, called the "Grand Turk Cruise Center," located on the southern tip of the island. The cruise center offers a unique attraction called the FlowRider, which allows you to surf on an artificial wave. You can find more information on the FlowRider at http://carnival-news.com/2008/06/13/cahill-%e2%80%98hangs-ten%e2%80%99-on-grand-turk-flowrider/.

Before the cruise center was built, Grand Turk was one of the most remote and unspoiled of the islands. It will be interesting to see how this new tourist center impacts the natural beauty on TCI.

See http://www.grandturkcc.com and http://www.carnival.com/Port_Of_Call.aspx?portCode=GDT for more information on cruising your way to paradise.

Weather

All of our visits to TCI were in the late Fall, and we found the weather to be very pleasant and warm during the day, and nice and cool at night. There were some rainy, drizzly days, but for the most part the weather was perfect each time we went. Now, that being said, TCI is a tropical destination, so a hot sun and high humidity are to be expected at times no matter when you visit. From speaking to other TCI regulars, another great time of year to visit is in May -- so you can get a wonderful head-start on your Summer tan.

The rainy season is generally from April to August (especially at night), and be careful to remember that hurricane season is not officially over until the end of November. Most hotels close down during hurricane season and re-open in late-Fall or early Winter with reduced rates, and then the rates go up as Spring arrives. The ocean temperature generally stays in the 70's in the Winter months and in the 80's during the Summer.

Food & Shopping

As previously mentioned, most of the restaurant hotels offer meals that are both amazingly fresh and incredibly tasty, but these restaurants generally have limited hours for lunch and/or dinner. For those of you who need access to food more often than just at mealtimes (you know who you are) - or for those of you who are not seafood fanatics - you may wish to take a taxi to the local grocery store and bring back some "supplies." Most hotels that provide rooms with full kitchens will have regularly-scheduled taxi service every day to the local grocery mart. This is a fun trip even if you don't need any food supplies, just to see all the local delicacies, fresh native fruits, and different international foods that are offered.

When you go out on day trips for touring excursions, be prepared to be fed whatever seafood the crew will be able to catch that day. Usually this is fresh conch, so if you do not particularly have a taste for such things (though for most people this is the highlight of the excursion), make sure to bring some snacks with you in a water-proof bag.

There are a couple of tiny strip-malls located on Provo, with gift shops, an Internet café, bike rentals, clothing stores, hair stylist shops, art boutiques, and sandwich shops, but for the most part the shopping opportunities are not that plentiful. With most of your time being spent doing amazing outdoor activities, you probably won't miss the lack of quality shopping centers.

Tipping

Although the Turks and Caicos Islands are growing rapidly into a booming tourist economy and provide wonderful accommodations and activities for the visiting traveler, many of the locals depend on great tips for their livelihood. Once you walk outside from baggage claim at the airport, it is not uncommon to have two or three people fighting over helping you with your luggage, or offering their taxi service to you. It is helpful if you have pre-arranged transportation through your hotel so you can avoid this situation.

Whatever transportation you end up taking, be prepared for tipping by bringing a reasonable supply of cash with you on your flight. The local currency is the U.S. dollar, and there are ATMs in TCI, but they are not necessarily within walking distance of wherever you will be staying. From taxi service to luggage service, everyone will expect a tip.

For most of us there is no need for such a thing as luggage service, since it's easy enough to lift a suitcase into a taxi or to walk it up to our room ourselves. But once you visit this lovely island you will see that you are for the most part simply not given a choice! Your luggage will be hoisted into a waiting taxi before you even have a chance to open your mouth. Make sure tipping is part of your budget when originally planning your trip or you may find yourself a bit short of cash not too far into your stay.

Bugs and Wildlife

As in every tropical locale, there are little critters and creatures to be aware of. In TCI, the main nuisances are "no-see-ums" which is a cute way to describe a non-cute bug, the mosquito. If you forget to bring your own supply of OFF bug spray, you will find a can left out for guests pretty much wherever you go on the island. You basically need to dip yourself in it each afternoon before the sun hints at going down, because these nasty little critters will eat you alive once dusk arrives if you haven't prepared. You've been warned.

Some of the islands on TCI play host to iguanas, and of course everywhere you turn you will see newts and salamanders running around. They will be in your hotel room, on the walls of every building, and forever under your feet no matter where you turn. I like to think of them as little tour-guides, always showing you the way to another adventure, and taking care to watch out for you as you visit their island. For some people these little critters are unnerving and can cause much anxiety, so be aware of what to expect on your trip so you aren't uncomfortable with your surroundings.

There are also more than a few roaming cats on TCI. If you ever wondered about the true meaning of "lazy cat," seeing a native TCI feline will explain it all. In fact, "lazy" is understated. They like to howl and fight at night, and beg for behind-the-ear scratches from visitors during the day, but mostly they like to sleep wherever and whenever they see fit. They definitely walk around as if they own the place.

Letting Go and Giving In

Your first two or three days on TCI may make you feel a little stir-crazy. The quietness and peacefulness is sometimes hard to get used to when we're all used to such a busy pace of life. Once you allow yourself to join the island's rhythm though, you will find yourself changed forever - even once you eventually go "home." The things you depend on at home (microwave, telephone, fax, cell phone, radio, computer, email, etc.) are so non-important they don't even factor into your daily life while on island-time. The only thing important while on island-time is strolling down the deserted the beach, reading under a palm tree, touring your surroundings on a bike ride, or taking a swim in the calm, clear ocean. The sooner you give in to this peace, the longer you will get to enjoy it!