Twelve Easy and Painful Steps Towards Healthy Hair

Hair is the ultimate accessory for your image; it can add to and possibly even detract your overall look instantly. Keeping it in healthy condition is the most important thing you can do to help it look and feel fabulous like a glamorous celebrity. Though it undoubtedly seems rather facile, this isn't as simple as minimizing chemical treatments or slathering on a weekly deep conditioner.

While these can make your strands softer and less split-end-prone, what really matters is the daily handling (and I cannot possibly stress this enough); this is what creates the most stress--and potentially wreaking havoc--to your tresses and support roots. To help your locks look their best, I asked top experts from around the country for their advice on how to baby your mane every single day. So whether your concern is dullness, damage, frizz or fragility, we have the answers to ease even the toughest hair-care woes. Read on for tips to achieve run-your-fingers-through-it hair.

1 Steer clear of plastic-bristle brushes. The proper bristles are key. A combination of natural boar bristles on either a round or flat brush are best for dry hair, while soft, rubber-toothed wide-paneled brushes are best for damp hair. My favorite brushes include the Mason Pearson Boar Bristle brush ($78.50; zitomer.com) and Aveda's Wooden Paddle Brush ($17; aveda.com).

2 Brush before shampooing. A few gentle strokes on dry hair will help remove product buildup and scalp flakes, as well as stimulate the scalp and promote blood flow (which delivers nutrients like oxygen) to hair follicles. For a smoother slide, try Clairol Herbal Essences Let It Loose Detangling Spray ($3; at drugstores).

3 Know your water. If your hair looks dull or is hard to style, the problem could indeed actually be your tap water. Well water contains natural minerals (called "hard water") that can leave hair lusterless and hard to manage and can impart a brassy, orange hue. Soft water, on the other hand, has fewer damaging minerals. (Ask your local water department if your water is soft or hard, or try using Robert Craig's No More Bad Hair Days Kit, $20; robertcraig.com; with strips to test your water.) To rid hair of mineral buildup, suds up every week with a clarifying shampoo. We like Frederic Fekkai Apple Cider Clarifying Shampoo and Clean Conditioner ($18.50 each; saks.com). Make sure to research your water beforehand!!

4 Mist your ends with water before home coloring. The ends of your hair are more porous and, as a result, absorb more pigment. Wet hair doesn't absorb color as readily as dry hair.

5 Trim your troubles. As the ends of your hair get older and damaged by rough handling, they become prone to splitting. Get regular trims, at least 1/2 inch every four to eight weeks. Hair grows (on average) half an inch per month, so trim to maintain healthy ends. This is an important issue that many people forget or ignore because they think it is inconsequential-- it's not!

6 Use color-protective products. Chemical treatments like color can damage hair because the chemicals have to penetrate the outer layer of the hair (or cuticle) to allow the hue to be absorbed. Color-protective products are specially designed to minimize dryness, keep color true and prevent damage. They typically have more nourishing ingredients, strip less color and are less abusive. I personally love L'Oreal VIVE Color Care Shampoo and Conditioner ($3.69 each; at drugstores) and Matrix Biolage Color Care Shampoo ($10) and Conditioner ($11; matrix.com for salon locations).

7 Give wet hair extra TLC. It stretches and snaps more easily than dry hair does, so be extra-gentle with it. However, the end product is a better and more desirable hairstyle. Use a wide-tooth plastic comb while hair is wet; then, once it's towel-dried, switch to a good brush. And avoid wooden combs; wood can have microscopic divots that snag hairs. Instead try the Jilbere de Paris plastic shower comb ($1.49; sally beauty.com for store locations).

8 Deep condition once every two weeks. These treatments penetrate the hair shaft and strengthen strands, who adds that using heat (from a blow-dryer) can intensify deep conditioning, as the heat causes the cuticle to open and the ingredients to penetrate.

For nourishing results, try Kerastase Masquintense ($36; 877-748-8357 for salons), available for fine or thick hair; Neutrogena Triple Moisture Sheer Hydration Leave-In Foam ($7; at drugstores); or Ellin Lavar Textures ReconstructMasque ($25; ellinlavar.com).

9 Try an ionic dryer. Ions are basically atoms with a positive or negative charge. These particular hair-dryers bathe your hair in negative ions, which help break up water molecules faster and cancel out hair-damaging positive ions. Plus, your hair-drying time is cut in half. We love the Bio Ionic Super-Hydrator Pro Dryer ($165; bioionic.com for salon locations).

10 Just use your dryer's nozzle. It's the best way to help prevent frizz because it concentrates the airflow on sections. Without a nozzle the dryer's grill gets very hot; if your hair gets too close to it, it will cause damage and/or breakage.

For curls, use a diffuser attachment to gently surround your hair with air. Try Vidal Sassoon Ceramic Finger Diffuser ($8; hotus.com for store locations). Follow up with John Frieda's Frizz-Ease Secret Weapon Flawless Finishing Creme ($6; at drugstores) to smooth strands.

11 Give textured or relaxed hair a break. Black American's hair tends to be coarse due to a lack of natural oils (more so if chemically processed. I strongly recommend opting for gentle color choices like semipermanent or vegetable color. Make sure to space these treatments at least three weeks apart, with weekly conditioning treatments in between for shine maintenance that definitely helps.

12 Use the right accessories. Kim Vo, a stylist at West Hollywood's B2V Salon, suggests putting hair in soft braids or twists and using claw clips rather than barrettes, which can pull hair. Other options: gentle Goody Ouchless elastic bands ($3 for 14; at drugstores) and L. Erickson Grab 'N Go Pony O's ($12 for three; franceluxe.com).

HAIR COLOR

The biggest cosmetic move right now is hair color! Forget about harsh shades that go straight from the bottle down to your roots in one solid hue. This summer the trend is creative coloring and styling. Here's what to watch for: Brunette hair color is big on the scene, but with a difference--it's enhanced now with strategically placed shades, such as L'Oreal's Brush-on Soft Color Highlights in Auburn, that warm and give depth. And in the salons, sisters can check out Sebastian International's Bleeding Colours, an alternative coloring technique that warms and enriches brown hair. At Clairol, hairstylist and spokesperson Louis Licari achieves The New Brunette by coloring in layers to give the appearance of volume. According to Dark & Lovely, black hair is back and popular with younger women. We think it's a head-turner when it's soft, glowing and worn with black mascara and red lips. At the other end of the spectrum, there's a trend toward lighter colors that range from ash brown to cool saffron. Dark & Lovely has introduced a shade that it calls Chestnut Blonde, which will deliver a cool yellow without any red, a look that has been difficult to achieve in the past. So never mind if your preference is for light or brunette; this summer's the one when any sister can have more fun!

* Before swimming, put on an oil-based conditioner to protect and coat the hair. One to try is Luster's Pink Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion. After swimming, rinse out the chlorine immediately. It's very damaging and has a tendency to fade hair color, so following this procedure is extremely important.

* Use products formulated for color-treated hair, especially maintenance products that give added protection. One to try is L'Oreal's Color-vive Technitreat because it contains sun filters and is extremely rejuvinating.

* Wear hats, scarves and swim caps to protect your hair. Don't wear tight headbands or scarves: The sweat caused by either can fade color-treated hair.

* Poolside suggetion: Along with your sun block, always carry a spray bottle with water and hair conditioner mixed together. From time to time, spritz the hair to add extra moisture.

Products that promise to hold or tighten the skin or to diminish or prevent wrinkling can't change or alter skin permanently. A properly formulated product can temporarily improve elasticity and reduce fine lines for eight to ten hours by plumping the skin and creating a smooth surface. These products are safe for long-term use because they don't penetrate the epidermis. However, according to Harold E. Pierce, M.D., a dermatologist in Philadelphia, all cosmetics, not just firming products, have properties that can cause allergic or irritant reactions such as burning, redness, swelling and inflammation immediately after use. So when you buy a firming product, ask for a sample and test it beneath your chin.

In order for our hair to have more volume, we have to make the hair shaft fuller. However, doing this is a delicate process because of our hair's fragility and natural curl pattern. Also, a lot of the products on the market that promise to create volume are not formulated for our hair types. If you do buy these products, look for ones that are alcohol-free and made specifically for Black hair, such as TCB Styling Mousse. When it comes to moisturizing setting lotions, choose ones that are light. One to try is Dark & Lovely's Conditioning Setting Lotion. To be sure that the product won't dry out your hair, look for conditioning ingredients such as panthenol, silk proteins, amino acids and aloe vera. If your hair has a tendency to frizz, it's best to use a cream rinse or a detangler that contains fatty acids and silicone immediately after you shampoo and condition.

Noncomedogenic products promise to help prevent blackheads and acne; products labeled hypoallergenic promise that their ingredients won't cause allergic reactions. According to Ellen Gendler, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City, products that are tested and labeled noncomedogenic and hypoallergenic do seem to cause fewer negative reactions, but the labeling is no guarantee that your skin won't react adversely. You'd be wise to use noncomedogenic and hypoallergenic products from well-known cosmetic companies that do thorough testing. Some of them are Clinique, Aziza and Maybelline.

Are you having a personal oil crisis? And we don't mean the kind that makes your car run! A lot of us have oily skin that requires special care in order for it to look and feel good. Oily skin usually stems from active enzymes releasing more oil than necessary from the sebaceous (oil) glands. Some other factors that aggravate or accelerate the secretion of oil are hormones, diet, mood swings, environment and heredity. Oily skin requires extra attention to prevent breakouts and pores becoming clogged with debris and to stop makeup from shining and streaking. Overactive sebaceous glands are hard to control, but the right treatment products and beauty regimen will keep oily skin in check. When oil and residue aren't handled properly, the result could be anything from acne to scaly patches (a buildup of dead cells commonly known as seborrheic dermatitis). Or you could see less medically defined symptoms such as simple shine and the appearance of enlarged pores. But don't feel too bad about oily skin--it has its benefits. Down the road when everyone else is drying up and drawing in, you can look forward to smooth, wrinkle-free skin.

If you have oily skin, the most important thing is to find products that are created specifically to treat it but are balanced so they won't dry out your skin.

* Wash your face with warm water and mild soaps or cream cleansers. Some to try are Clarins's Gel Nettoyant Purifiant or Lancome's Savon Creme Freschette, which are both extremely effective. Don't use abrasive brushes or scrubs to clean your face.

* After cleaning your face, remove with an astringent the topical oil that remains; use cotton and pay close attention to the areas that are particularly oily, such as the nose, forehead and hairline. Some astringents to try are Chanel's Lotion Vivifiante and Naomi Sims's Primrose Rinsing Lotion.

* Use moisturizers that are oil-free. They protect your face but they allow makeup to glide on easier. Some are Lancome's Clarifiance or Flori Roberts's Gold Oil Free moisturizer.

* For approximately twice a week, give yourself a facial to remove dead-cell buildup and to deep-clean pores. Try Mary Kay's Revitalizing Mask Formula 2.

* For those of you with oily T-zone areas, use cleansers and moisturizers for combination skin, as they are effective on both types of your skin without being too harsh.

* Avoid makeup that contains too much mineral oil or lanolin, a chemical compound that excessive amounts can cause damage to.

* If your skin is extremely oily, use an oil-control lotion before applying makeup that will absorb natural oil and allow easier makeup application. Let it completely dry before you apply your foundation. One to try is Mary Katherine's I-Zone Oil Block.

* Use water-based, oil-free foundations. Also try the ones that have oil-controlling ingredients. Some to try are Prescriptives' 100% Oil Free Exact Color Makeup or Maybelline's Shades of You Oil Free Makeup.

* Use loose powders that will monitor oily areas and adjust themselves to your skin type. Try Custom Blend by Prescriptives.

* Always remove makeup before going to bed. Many people dangerously undervalue the crucial importance of this fact.

Have fun transforming your ahir into the beautiful person you are!