The arrival by air gives one an over view of the three main islands of Lamu, Pate, and Manda. Transportation between the three is by dhow, the local word for a variety of wooden crafts that ply the local waters. Transportation on Lamu is strictly foot traffic. There is only one vehicle on the island, that being a seldom-used government transport for the leading official. However, do not let that discourage you as everything is within easy walking distance.
When you arrive at the dock you find that the narrow alleyways lead to the main shopping, just one block in from the ocean. There you can find beautiful woodcarvings, an array of jewelry and khangas or kikoyis to purchase. Khangas being a beautifully decorated and colored local cloth used as a wrap-around. These are worn by men and women alike and are very versatile as well as comfortable. The jewelry is made of local shells and some of the very old pottery washed ashore from old trading ships. The woodcarving can be seen everywhere you look. Ornate doorways that lead into private homes only hint a the beautiful craftmanship that lie inside. Large wooden trunks with ornate brass inlays are found for sale in local shops. And are only one example of the wonderful carving found here. Lamu's museum holds some of the finest Swahili art from the 17th and 18th centuries. The museum also contains a collection of replicas of dhows and representations of traditional home interiors.
The clear blue sky and warm water of the Indian Ocean combined with easygoing atmosphere of Lamu is conducive to a local malady called "coastitis". This consists of a want to sit idly in the shade with a tall, cool glass of mango juice and calmly watch life go on around you. I am told the only cure is to move inland.
The warm waters are also home to some of the best deep-sea fishing as well as wind surfing and snorkeling you can hope to find anywhere. The reefs are home to a large variety of colorful fish well worth observing. The climate is warm, the breezes tropical, the people friendly, and the food excellent, the perfect setting for an advanced case of coastitis. Who would ever want to move inland after a time in a place such as this?
Published by Linda Martinez
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- Lamu is one of Africa's oldest living Swahili towns.