Valanni, One of Philadelphia's Finest Bistros

I admit, after a six-year courtship, I got neglectful. I forgot the little things that made the relationship special. The spontaneous encounters ceased, and the romance fell flat as I started to eye up the new hot thing on the block. I took Valanni for granted. I was extremely happy, but I thought that I was too young to settle down. So many new choices, new options...I couldn't commit. I started to run around with cheap BYOBs and sassy new franchises. Some hot times ensued, don't get me wrong, but often I was left empty, cold and alone with a lighter wallet. Why do we confuse familiarity and comfort with boredom? The morning I awoke with a terrible hangover, smelling of BBQ sauce with an Arby's napkin in my pocket, I knew that things had reached a breaking point. I admit it, I screwed up.

We'd been fixtures on the scene for years. Matt and Valanni, hand and fork, strolling down Spruce. Me at the bar, whiling away the hours with plates of calamari and glasses of wine. People always said what a handsome couple we made. Valanni stylishly coiffed in black and brick, me well fed and smiling. We were really something.

But men are stupid. I wanted to try new things, like Latin-German fusion, and Meso-Polish-vegan. Boy, did that all suck. You don't know what you've got till it's gone. The wanderlust faded, and I decided to beg Valanni to take me back.

I expected a silent and uncomfortable reconciliation dinner, but Valanni's full of surprises. Her staff was warm, courteous, and handsome (hey, jealousy). It was like nothing had ever happened. Within seconds of seating, an Absolut Ruby Red Slipper was brought to my table. Mmmmm just the way I like it too...strong.
Valanni opened the conversation with the Medi-Latin plate ($25). It was a classic choice, a reminder of our past, with a promising twist of the unknown. Was it over the scrumptious chipotle chicken empanadas, or the grilled adobe beef kabobs that I finally remembered my love? By the time I was munching on the incredible fried manchega, crisp but buttery cheese perfectly fried, I was desperate for commitment. I inhaled the unique Dolmades platter ($6) so quickly, I am sure she could tell she'd mesmerized me again. The grape leaves stuffed with feta cheese and ground lamb was new territory for us. Served with a side of tzatziki, it appeared Valanni was new and exotic.

By the time main courses arrived, I was having trouble playing it cool. The classic but flavorful paella ($20) reminded me of our happier years. Shellfish, chorizo sausage, ancho chicken, squid, and saffron rice all mixed together, it almost brought tears to my eyes.

Sealing the deal, Valanni sent out the chocolate plate for two ($14). If a man's heart is won through his stomach, the chocolate is the key to a man's soul. Light and rich chocolate mousse was a tasty prelude to a three-way of truffles: Chocolate Chambord truffle coated in hazelnut, a chocolate brandy truffle coated in coconut, and a chocolate caramel truffle coated in coconut. The three-way was orgasmic, and while I gently floated down from the truffle high, Valanni sprung again with a sinful white chocolate panna cotta. How could I say "no"? It was settled, my heart (and my stomach) would always be loyal to Valanni, and although my eyes (and credit card) may wander elsewhere, she would never let me stray very far.-Matthew Ray

Valanni, 1229 Spruce St, 215-790-9494, valanni.com.