Visit Orcas Island in the San Juan Archipelago

Denise Seith
Although the breezes here tend to be more brisk than balmy and there's not a palm tree in sight (the peeling, red bark of the madrona tree is more common), quaint Orcas Island is an ideal island vacation-and easily accessible by seaplane or aboard a Washington State ferry. Over 700 rural islands make up the San Juan Archipelago, but only four (Orcas, San Juan, Lopez, and Shaw) are served by the ferry system. Orcas is the largest of those four.

Neighborhoods and Names

Covering over 36,000 acres, Orcas Island is dotted with charming hamlets as well as a downtown area. Eastsound is the biggest small town on the island and offers everything you'd expect to find in a city, but on a much smaller scale-unique boutiques, restaurants, a church, grocery store, museum, and even a small movie theater. The names of the island's tiny towns are as charming as the actual places- Deer Harbor, Crow Valley, Olga, and Doe Bay, to name a few. Driving or bicycling around the island is the best way to explore. Take your time and stop often. Many artists and artisans make their homes in these hamlets, so it's easy to find art galleries with one-of-a-kind pottery, paintings, metal sculptures, and more.

Speaking of names, Orcas Island is not named for the killer whales that live in the waters around the San Juan Islands as you might expect. Instead, the island's namesake was a Spanish viceroy-Juan Vicente de Güemes Padilla Horcasitas y Aguayo-known as a great reformer and one of the finest administrators of the Spanish colonial era. Although he sponsored exploration, Güemes Padilla Horcasitas (1740-1799) did not see the Pacific Northwest as being worth what it would cost to maintain possession of it, so no army was built up here.

Moran State Park

If you enjoy the great outdoors, head to Moran State Park and explore the park's 5,252-acre wilderness, which includes five freshwater lakes and miles of hiking trails. The highest point in the San Juan Island Archipelago is here-2,409-foot Mt. Constitution. Drive to within 100 steps of the top and then walk up to a stone observation tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936. At the top, you're treated to incredible views of neighboring islands.

Rosario Resort and Spa

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Rosario Resort and Spa is a delightful place to stay, or just stop in and poke around in the island's history. If your visit coincides with mealtime, dining outdoors with a pristine view of Cascade Bay makes the menu here even more delectable.

Originally built as a dream house in 1906 by shipping magnate Robert Moran (the same man who donated the land that became Moran State Park), the mansion is filled with antiques such as a working 1,972-pipe Aeolian organ and a Tiffany chandelier. Even the 6,000 square feet of teak parquet flooring is a work of art! Although the bowling alley in the basement is long gone, the 13x40-foot indoor pool is original. Mr. Moran surrounded himself with such luxuries after being told he had one year to live. Interestingly, Mr. Moran outlived his doctor's prognosis by 40 years and enjoyed a long, happy life on beautiful Orcas Island. Many of his personal photographs and original furnishings are displayed in the informal, free museum on the resort's third floor.

From the first scenic ferry trip to the last rays of an evening sunset, visiting Orcas Island is a like a breath of fresh air-you'll want to inhale deeply and often!

Published by Denise Seith

Through words and photos, Denise Seith not only tells you where to go, but what to see and do once you get there. Denise frequently contributes to travel magazines, blogs, and websites. She's also a graphic...  View profile

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