This temple site is a large complex of 23 separate temples that are all related with the most important one being Pura Penataran Agung.
Although the exact origins of Pura Besahih are not absolutely clear it almost certainly dates from prehistoric times.
From 1284 the temple was used as a Hindu place of worship when the first Javanese conquerors settled in Bali.
By the 15th century Pura Besahih had become a state temple of the Gelgel dynasty.
Exploring Pura Besahih
2km south of the complex on the road from Menanga is where you will find the main entrance.
The fee structure can be a bit complicated but here is a quick summary:
Adults - 7500Rp
Child - 6000Rp
Still Camera - 1000Rp
Video Camera - 2500Rp
Car Park - 1000Rp
Please take note that you may get charged for a video camera regardless of whether you have one or not...........
Once past the ticket office you will come to a fork in the road. Here you can either go right to Besakih or left to Kintamani. Go Right.
Should you decide to take the left fork you will find yourself in a large car park about 300m from the complex.
As mentioned previously Pura Penataran Agung is the most important temple here.
It is built on six levels that are terraced up a slope. You approach the entrance from below up a flight of steps.
The entrance is imposing, it is a split gateway (candi bentar) but the second gateway leading to the courtyard is even more impressive.
If you can make it here during one of the frequent festivals you will see hundreds of beautifully dressed devotees bringing their wonderfully arranged offerings.
The other temples here are not as scenic but each have their own individual significance and unfortunately are often closed to visitors.
Pura Besahih has three temples of origin, Pura Basukian, Pura Penataran Agung and Pura Dalem Puri.
On clear days the view down to the sea from Pura Besahih is sublime.
Getting There
To be honest the best way to get to Pura Besahih is using your own transport. There are many lovely drives throughout this area and driving yourself will give you the freedom to do some exploring.
Or, you can visit by bemo from Semarapura (10,000Rp) but from other parts of Bali this can be an all day affair.
Be sure the driver takes you to the temple entrance and not the village and should you want to return to Semarapura or Denpassar by bemo make sure you leave the temple by 3pm.
Things to avoid
Scams abound here, which makes some regret ever making the trip to Pura Besakih.
Firstly, next to the car park is a Tourist Information office. The guides here will tell you that you really need their services but you do not. You can walk among the temples and no guide will be able to get you into a temple that is closed.
There will be other guides trying to foist themselves on you throughout your visit. Beware it has been reported that some tourists who used their services were hit with a huge fee at the end.
Once you are inside the complex you may get offers to 'come pray with me'. If you decided to take this up and get into a forbidden temple you may face demands of 100,000Rp or even more.
Source: Bali & Lombok - the Lonely Planet
Published by Karen Reams
Karen Reams is an English writer now living in North Dakota. She has travelled extensively and enjoys sharing her travels. Trained in Cambride, UK as an NNEB she is also interested in all things to do with... View profile
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