Visiting Historic Jefferson, Texas

On Highway 59, just a few miles past Marshall, you start to see the signs. "Visit Historic Jefferson, Texas!" (For you Internet folks, try http://jeffersontx.com/) If you have a day to spend, go ahead and stop. The signs lead you right downtown. Pack your comfortable shoes, though - you're better off seeing Jefferson on foot. You'll want to park just over the bayou next to the jail and make a big circle through the old town. Also bring your appetite - there's plenty to tempt it.

Any time of year, Jefferson is the place for some serious antiquing, reproduction shopping, or cruising through what my mum calls the brocant shop and my dad calls the junk barn. From your prime parking spot, head toward the bayou turnbasin. On your left, you'll see the Old General Store, but don't stop there yet. Their soda fountain staff makes a chocolate malted that will hit the spot after you've been walking a while. On your right, Diamond Bessie's, and then over the railroad tracks, you see a giant red barn. That's the place. There are nice antiques mixed in with the reproductions and the strange garage sale stuff, as well as a varied selection of metalwork outside You'll find some bargains as well as things that will make you laugh. No AC or heat, though, so don't duck in expecting a break from the weather. After you pore through the big red barn, head back over the tracks and follow your nose to the fudge shop, which also has a selection of antiques and reproductions attached. Any of the fudge is good, but for history buffs they also carry things like Victorian-style violet candy. Lots of dishes and housewares as far as the antiques, we've found lots of really nice glassware that's not too expensive to actually use. The rest of the street has some various antique shops, though the hours on some of them are a little erratic.

Walk up to the corner and take a left, and you'll see the signs pointing to the Blackburn's Syrup Outlet. Now, if you live anywhere in the South, you know that cane syrup is an essential, but they've also got all the jellies and relishes that Blackburn's makes for sale. Also, the man that's usually behind the counter can tell you about as much as the tourist information folks as to where things are

Cross the street, and you'll be right next to a crazy antique shop that looks like it should be a bottling factory - they seem to have every kind of glass soda bottle you could possibly want - and probably my favorite place in the town, Der Baskit Kase. (http://www.dbkmusicstore.hypermart.net/) The Ol' Fiddle Maker really does beautiful work - he has rescued my violin and mandolin on a few occasions from my mistreatment - and they always have tons of beautiful instruments. There's actually a couple other shops in there, but I always get hooked in to the instruments and don't have time to look at the books or the victrolas.

If your feet are getting tired, and you're getting hungry, just follow your nose to what you fancy. Riverport BBQ, Auntie Skinner's, Licea's Mexican, or the Lafayette Street Sandwich Shop - they're all good. Auntie Skinner's is livelier at night, usually with live music, but for a relaxing burger and beverage they are great for lunch too. If it's just the girls, we love the Sandwich Shop, it's pleasant and sunny with lighter fare. Licea's also has a lively nighttime scene as well as homestyle tex-mex, while Riverport BBQ will have you reaching for a few extra napkins.

After lunch, head back toward the jail. You'll see a big red brick building. This is a really great museum, literally stacked with things from the attic to the basement, and last time I was there it was only about $5 to get in. When you get through, find J. Gould's rail car and the Excelsior Hotel. The rail car is definitely worth taking the tour, even if you're not into history you'll gawk at the elegant accoutrements they managed to squeeze into such a small space. After you've seen that, head to the Excelsior and see Gould's prediction in the guestbook. Maybe if you ask nicely they'll also tell you about the haunted rooms upstairs. After that, go take the carriage tour. You'll see the houses, Hebe's fountain, and learn a lot while resting your feet for a while.

Now, go get that malted and poke around the Old General Store - you never know what kind of things you might find in there. Now, my other favorite place in town is Tootie's Candles, sort of hidden between the tourist center and the General Store. It's a little family business, and they will make custom candles for you. Sounds strange, till you see the candles. They literally dip a candle blank into different layers of coloured wax, then cut with a paring knife and twist the hot wax to create basket weaves, butterflies, curliques, and even bluebonnet candles. Also, I can tell you that when they say you can keep them as long as you want, they're not fibbing. My unity candle was custom dipped there, and it still looks new after nearly 4 years. You burn it down a bit, then drop a tea light in and you can truly use it indefinitely if you keep it out of drafts.

Jefferson is great any time of year, but at Christmas it is even more charming, if that's possible. Also, you can take candlelight tours of some of the homes which are not otherwise open. The 4th of July is also a great time to spend the day - they have a festival at the park which is completely free, although you can usually purchase homemade ice cream, and you can bid on the cake contest which usually benefits the library. About May, history turns to historical fiction with the "Battle of Jefferson," a civil war reenactment of a battle that "could have" happened but didn't. Some of the homes open then as well, but not as many as at Christmas. They do a Mardi Gras celebration most years, and this year they had their first St. Patrick's Day Festival, which was fun but a little cheesy. The nice thing is that I've never been to an event in Jefferson which was not family-friendly. So if you're in the area, stop to visit, and you'll probably find yourself coming back again - even if you think it's only for the amaretto fudge.