Visiting a Japanese Onsen

No really! Although at first this might sound strange, frightening, maybe even plain disgusting, you should try it out because the Onsen is one of Japan's best kept secrets.

Onsen is a Japanese word that literally means hot spring, although a better translation would be hot spring spa. You can find onsens all over Japan and every one is unique.

Japan is a volcanic chain of islands and the hot springs are like an apology from the gods, for all the earthquakes, tsunamis and volcanos that the Japanese have to endure.

The onsen is a place to get clean, to socialise with friends and most importantly, to relax and let the naturally hot mineral waters ease away the aches and pains of everyday life.

When you visit an onsen you should bring two things with you, and both of them are towels - one big and one small. Having said that, most onsens will sell or rent you a towel if you don't have one.

When you get to the onsen you will need to pay, either to the counter at the entrance or by putting money into a small ticket machine. Most onsens cost around ¥300 - ¥1,000 ($3-10). Most (but not all!) onsens separate men and women. There will be two doorways with curtains over them. The curtains usually have the Japanese word for man and women on them so that you know which part to enter, but don't worry if you don't speak Japanese; the men's curtain is usually blue and the women's one is red or pink.

Once you go through the curtain everything is separated so if you go with a friend of the opposite sex you'll need to arrange a time to meet back outside before you go in. Inside you find yourself in the changing room. Take off all of your clothes and place them in one of the baskets or lockers provided. Remember the two towels? The big one you leave behind to get dry with after the onsen. The small one is used for washing and for modesty if you're feeling shy. In most Western countries there aren't a lot of occasions where you find yourself naked with strangers but in Japan it's quite normal and hopefully this means you won't feel too self conscious.

You enter the onsen area through another door from the changing room and the first thing to do is to get clean. Inside the bath area you will notice some low showers with small stools and bowls and one or more large baths.

Japanese people don't wash in the bath. The bath is purely for relaxing in and so before you get into the bath you have to take a shower. Choose a shower and sit on the stool. Fill up the small tub with water and dunk your small towel in. The aim now is to get really clean. Use the shower and towel with the soap provided to have a really good scrub. Once you're done make sure you rinse all the soap and bubbles off. You don't want to get any soap in the bath.

When you're done cleaning then it is time to check the bath. Be careful! The water can sometimes be almost scalding hot. When you enter the bath don't put your towel into the water, leave it on the side of the bath or, if you want to be really Japanese, fold it up and balance it on your head. What to do next? Nothing! Just sit there and relax as the hot water soothes your muscles.

Often there will be baths with different temperatures of water so you can find the best one for you. Most onsens also have a rotenburo. This means open air bath. If your onsen has one then don't miss it as this is the best part of any onsen visit. Typically the rotenburo will be a secluded garden just outside the onsen with a large bath and usually a beautiful view - maybe the ocean, or a mountain or lake. Sit outside in the bath and enjoy the view.

One of my best onsen experiences was sitting in the rotenburu of an onsen in Japan's north island of Hokkaido in the winter. I was completely naked, sat outside, as it snowed and the full moon rose over the mountains! the outside temperature was around -10 degrees C whilst the bath I was sitting in was at around 42 degrees C and the whole time enormous snow flakes were falling around me and landing on my head.

Once you've had enough or it's time to leave then head back into the changing area, get dry and dressed again. Outside the changing area there is normally a place for you to sit down and wait for your friends.

It might sound strange, and most people feel a little nervous before their first visit, but if you are brave and try an onsen you will never look back. It really is great way to spend an evening and it's a wonderful experience to tell your friends about back home.