Visting Bocas Del Toro in Panama: Eclypse De Mar, Bocas Water Sports and Local Dining

Bocas del Toro is located on a chain of islands on the north side of Panama. There are flights from the mainland on Aeroperlas and Air Panama, with a 50 minute flight from Panama City. The other option is to take a water taxi from Almirante or Changuinola. Bocas del Toro is the typical tourist town, with restaurants and hotels built like row houses but most with balconies overlooking the water. There are water taxis readily available to get to the other islands but they make frequent stops to drop off/pick up supplies and other passengers. The water taxi cost to Bastimentos, the other main island, was $3 per person each way in March 2009.

Hotel Bocas del Toro is located right in the middle of Bocas del Toro town and overlooks the water. Hotel Bocas del Toro looks nice, but for an additional $30 per night there are accommodations offering private bungalows over the water. Hotel Bocas del Toro food prices are reasonable with most sandwiches running $5-$7. The food at Hotel Bocas del Toro is decent and served slightly different than the American versions. For lunch, the BLT is served with ketchup instead of mayonnaise. The chicken fingers are not greasy, but the batter has some spice.

Buena Vista Bar and Grill offers a good happy hour until 7:00 pm and overlooks the water. For Happy hour prices in March 2009 included pina coladas for $2.50, Tequila sunrise and margaritas for $2. The Buena Vista Bar and Grill always seemed to be busy with a reasonably priced menu.

9 degrees Restaurant is upscale water dining, in a small strip mall, next to the police station. Prices are slightly higher than the other restaurants in town, but offer a more upscale atmosphere. 9 degrees Restaurant offers chaise lounge chairs along the deck overlooking the water to relax while waiting for a table or just to enjoy a drink. For dinner in March 2009, the lobster tacos consisted of 3 very small tacos, with not much lobster for $9, a glass of wine for $4, sangria for $4 and Pork Rellano with overcooked pork, good mashed potatoes and gravy for $16.

Bocas Water Sports is located in Bocas del Toro, less than a block from the Jamon (water taxi). The owners Stacy and John are wonderful and are prompt to respond to emails. A 2 tank dive is $60 including all gear or a 1 tank dive for $35. Stacy and John are very accommodating in allowing you to do the first dive, then add the second and charge the 2 tank rate to receive some savings. The boat comes back to the shop in between dives to swap out tanks and for the surface interval, allowing time to decide whether or not to continue diving. The boats are very small, fishing type boats. In March 2009, the diving was not great and we stayed inside the reef due to the rough waters on the outside. There had apparently been weeks of rain prior to our arrival which didn't help visibility, which in March 2009 was only about 20'. John and Stacy chose to turn divers away when visibility was only 10 feet during the rains (other dive shops were happy to take the divers for a poor experience), which shows true customer service! From what we are told, the diving is much better outside the islands/reef and the best time of year is September/October with up to 100' visibility. Talk to Stacy and John, they will give you an honest assessment of the conditions. From what we saw, I'm not sure I'd go back for the diving.

The Eclypse de Mar, located on Bastimentos offers 6 individual over the water bungalows for $180 per night in March 2009. Each bungalow is 'L' shaped with 2 rooms. There is a bedroom that opens up to the deck and another 'living room' with 2 single beds/couches that also opens up to the deck. The deck has steps down to the water for snorkeling or swimming and offers hammocks and chaise lounge chairs to enjoy the sun or breeze. There are 2 small glass panels in the floor of each bungalow to see the fish under the bungalow. The Eclypse de Mar water is safe to drink as it comes from a spring, but it is on timed faucets, to control water consumption. All electricity is solar powered and only available from 6pm - 9am. There is no air conditioning in the bungalow, but the nights cool off nicely, with an almost constant breeze and ceiling fans. Breakfast is served in the dining room or in the bungalow at no extra cost. A very light continental breakfast (coffee, toast with butter and marmalade) is included in the room rate. The Eclypse de Mar could use some 'brochures' in the bungalow with amenities and restaurants in the area. The Eclypse de Mar does have internet access available but only during certain hours, when the power is available. This is a computer in the office that can be used, as well as wireless access in the dining area. The Eclpyse de Mar is not far from the small town of Bastimentos, but there is no road to town and water taxis must be used. To 'call' a water taxi there is a large pole with a white flag on it, just raise the flag and a water taxi is on the way. The ride is about 15 minutes from Bocas del Toro to Bastimentos and costs $3 per person each way. Eclypse de Mar is highly recommended for a quiet escape.

Alvin's in Bastimentos is a local restaurant serving local Panamanian food, such as fried chicken and other chicken and fish dishes. A half breast of chicken and a wing with rice, coleslaw and soft drink was $5.00 in March 2009 - the best deal around! Alvin's does not look like much, but the food was wonderful and it is open air looking over the water.

The Root is a local restaurant on the water in Bastimentos. The Root is reasonably priced and draws a decent crowd! A whole fresh fish with rice, fries and cole slaw was $6.50 and beers $1.00 in March 2009 and the water taxi to Eclypse del Mar from The Root was $1/person. Joe may be there to play guitar and sing some Bob Marley on request for tips.