Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza and Penne Pasta in New York City (A Review)

Any pizza place whose employees wear shirts with the words "We do it with Wood" emblazoned on their backs has got to be my kinda joint. Chef Waldy Malouf, the owner of Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza and Penne, has good reason for the tongue in cheek slogan since the first thing you notice walking in is not the ambience, but the heavy, smoky aroma of burning wood that feeds its oven.

Waldy's is not a restaurant, but a plain ol' pizza joint. Located on 28th Street and 6th Avenue, located in Manhattan's posh Flatiron district, to survive in this area, either the food has to be hip or the space better be. In the latter regard, Waldy's falls a bit short, but I don't hold it against them. There's a row of modern, square butcher block style tables lined up against the left wall of the establishment and partitioning the tables from the entrance space is a long wooden counter supported by spindly brown metal columns. It's a very spare look, purely functional without the snooty pretensions that such décor might suggest. Perhaps owing to this feel is the storage of bulk deliveries on its upper shelves. It lends the space a slightly disheveled appearance, but this should not suggest that it is dirty or unsanitary; in fact, it's just more telling how Manhattan real estate is notoriously tight. Toward the back is the wood burning hearth and just in front of it, a small counter from which you can order in or take out.

Aside from this conventional set up, Waldy's exudes the feel of an "upscale" pizza joint insofar as there are no calzones, heroes or glowing yellow Jamaican beef patties on its menu. Waldy's offers some basic salads as well as two varieties of Pizza Roll Ups. There's also an antipasti platter if you want to indulge in a mix of prosciutto, caponata, peppers and salamis, and the "penne" portion of the Pizzeria's title features three variations of penne macaroni - all with the top layer singed slightly from roasting in the wood oven: Mozzarella and Tomato (a la Vodka) with Roquefort and croutons, the sausage and broccoli rabe, and the two cheddar cheeses. Priced at a moderate $6.50, the portions are pretty sizable and enough for two people.

Let's get down to brass tacks and talk pizza. The very first thing you'll notice about your pie is the appearance. It's not classic Giotto round, but oval shaped. Since it's not sold by the slice, a small pie will yield six small pieces and run you anywhere from $5 to $7 depending whether you opt for the plain (four cheeses) or the more flamboyant prosciutto, roasted asparagus and Parmiggiano. Waldy's signature pies are creative and varied. There's the classic Margherita with Mozzarella and basil, but there's also one with Arugula, Garlic and, get this, sunny side eggs. Other offerings include Braised Lamb, Roasted Lemon and Oregano, or you can order a pie with roasted eggplant, zucchini and olives. Feel more daring? Try the pie with clams, garlic, crumbs and Ricotta. All in all, there are ten varieties with a regular pie ranging from $10 - $14 and a large running from $15 - $19. Waldy's also encourages you to mix and match any of the toppings to build your own pie. And as they say on the Take Out Menu, "Anchovies on any pie FREE - just ask!"

So how does the pizza taste? For that, I tried the pie with two of my favorite pizza toppings - wild mushrooms and onions. I picked up my pie at the counter and the oval masterpiece was served on a mini pizza paddle - nice touch, that. From the first, I noticed how the sauce was chunky, its color a muted red, even slightly reddish/orange with bright green ribbons of fresh basil stippling the top layer. The crust was sheet thin and having been cooked in the intense heat of a wood oven, there was the wonderful byproduct of black char randomly striping the bottom. At first bite, I noticed the competing textures: the blackened, crispy crust, the faint, sweet/acidic tang of fresh tomatoes intermingling with the secret blend of four cheeses was just excellent. The wild mushrooms were fresh and the onions were crunchy slivers perfectly cooked to take off the raw edge, but not soppy and stringy like a heap of tapeworms. To wash it down, Waldy's offered two types of red and white wine, simply called Good White and Better White, Good Red and Better Red, priced at $4 and $7 respectively. I splurged for the "better red" and as each sip lingered in my mouth, the flavors of the pizza I'd just eaten were summoned and danced on my tongue once again.

Is this supposed to be pizza for the trendy Chelsea set? You bet. Who else could think of topping a pizza crust with braised lamb or sunny side eggs? Malouf knows how to market to his crowd. Stick with the plain pizza or the Margherita if you're a purist, and if you're feeling adventurous go for the wilder toppings, but whatever you do, make sure you don't miss it.

*******************************************************
Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza and Penne
800 6th Avenue (between 27th and 28th Street)

My other pizza review: DiFara's in Brooklyn