What Hawaiian Travel Guides Don't Tell You - the Real Gems of the Big Island

jocelyn brady
I have read so many tourist books and travel reviews that skip over the true gems of Hawaii that I have begun to wonder if everyone is holding on to their secrets. Well, I grew up on the Big Island, and can tell you first hand some of the best spots to see that wont be found in any tourist brochure. But since we are all visitors at some point, let's start out with the basics.

1.Best Hotels.

Many writers have oo-ed and awed over the King Kamehameha Hotel (including one of AC's writers) located on the west side of the Big Island. Although named after the guy who united the islands (and shares my birthday) I'm not really sure why everyone is so gung ho on the King Kam. This is the place that local teenagers come to party away from home on the weekends or after a midnight prom lets loose (and I almost remember all of it). Don't get me wrong, the view here is a splendid display of oceanfront paradise where a weary wanderer can lay back and enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets on the planet. But once you venture out of your room onto the hotel's "beach," you will find yourself competing with toddlers for tide pool turf (wondering what that smell is), and battle boaters launching off of the adjacent boat ramp. And although you are smack dab in the middle of downtown Kailua, Kona, there are several hotels lining the area that are far superior to King Kamehameha Hotel.

Take Casa De Emdeko as a classic example of a little known resort with high-demand amenities. This place offers one of the coolest things you can find in the Islands: a salt-water pool. You can always cool off in the traditional chlorine pool at this hotel, but why turn your back on the oceanfront dip that gives you the saltwater experience without the danger of shore break and inconvenience of the deadly tiger shark? The pool sits atop a cliff overlooking the same west-side view that onlookers from the King Kam enjoy, but without the fuss of finagling a spot for your lounge chair.

But the absolute queen of luxury on the Big Island is the world-class Hilton Waikoloa Village a few miles north of Kailua town. Spoil yourself with a swim with dolphins, or enjoy a ride down one of the resort's water-slides that cascade into nature-inspired lagoons. If you enjoy putting it up for fun, grab a golf cart and get onto the lush green course right outside. And if you really like spending money (this hotel comes at a hefty price), visit the nearby Waikoloa shopping mall where you can find unique art and clothing shops found only in Hawaii.

2.Best Beaches

While the Hilton Waikoloa does not have the most beautiful beach on the Big Isle, you can cruise down the highway to the world-famous Hapuna Beach. The Hapuna Prince hotel rests on the northern nook of the beach, but if you park on the southern end, you would never know it. The only real drawback to this destination is that everyone else knows about it, and people become like vultures to snag the first sandy space available. To solve this problem, head just down the dirty drive to beach "69," named after the mile marker it resides on. This is a pristine property largely unvisited by tourists who have stuck to the run-of-the-mill magazines recommendations.

Another relatively recluse and absolutely stunning sun spot is Pauuilo Beach. Just the drive to see this spot is well worth it, and if you've got your hiking shoes on, brave it down the muddy, rocky path to the beach at the bottom of the cliffs. Black sand streches across this valley floor, and if you can't stand the heat (black sand is HOT), mosey on back to the camping area adorned with whispy pines. If you're really lucky, you might only be sharing this pristine area with the skittish black seacrabs (don't worry, they're scared of you).

Have you ever seen green sand? Make this a must on your Hawaiian agenda. Green sands beach, or Puu Mahana, boasts the only place where the sand is made up of tiny gems called olivine crystals. These byproducts of volcanic residue cover this nook on the southern tip of the island, making it a spectacular vision of otherworldly measures. Trek down with your four-wheel drive into the southernmost tip of the United States for an experience you will never forget.

If surfing is your thing, head down to Pohoiki beach. Otherwise known as the Anglo "Isaac Hale Beach Park," this boat launch destination has many breaks for wave riders of all levels. Go to first bay if you have had only a little experience in the water, or paddle out into the second bay to get a taste of the force of the Hawaiian rides. Even though many boaters take off from his pier, the water is still a turquoise blue so translucent you will find yourself counting turtles as they swim past you. Take care when heading out here, however, as there are no lifeguards and the ocean takes no heed of human indiscretions. Remember the rule that the locals follow: never turn your back on the ocean.

3.Best Food

For some reason I have never seen a pamphlet talk about Café Pesto (I've actually never seen a pamphlet talk, but that's a whole other can of beans). The original restaurant is located near the wreckage that was Kevin Costner's Waterworld, but don't let that stop you from feasting here! Or if you do, try out the Hilo spot where you can mosey down the street to see the historic Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two major tsunamis in the 20th century, and leaders have since designated a park boundary where builders wont get demolished in the event that disaster strikes again. The pizzas are to die for, and the seared poke (ahi tuna) is the best on the planet. Where else can you order fresh fish and actually get it hours after it was caught from the pier you're gazing at? And while you're splurging, get a taste of the Lilikoi Cheesecake - a perfect blend of mouth-puckering passion fruit and sweet cream.

If you like Thai food, you must try Nuang Mai Thai Kitchen on Hilo's Kilauea Avenue. This is a little "dive" spot where you can order real sticky rice and authentic Pad Thai with peanut sauce. Once you've got a taste, you will dream about coming back to the Big Island the next time you're craving this cuisine.

The local favorite on the Big Isle is Cafe 100. This is Hawaii's version of fast food. But don't go looking for a happy meal here; instead take a stab at a "loco moco" (if you speak Spanish, it's not what you think, really), a layered dish of rice, fried egg, beef patty and gravy. May not sound like your cup of joe, but you came to Hawaii to explore, right? But a fair warning: you might never get used to the Spam mania (you'll see what I mean).

Hawaii is renowned for its beauty and attractions that can't be seen anywhere else in the world. Swimming with dolphins, eating raw tuna, and hiking up an active volcano are just "a day in the life" of a local resident. But the tourist attractions everyone talks about are just that: overcrowded highlights that don't get around to the real beauty of Hawaii. So, if you're looking for the standard tourist trap, check out the regular suspects (no Fodor's plug here). But remember this handy guide when you're looking for a truly unique and Hawaiian experience. Aloha.

Published by jocelyn brady

Champion of word smithering.  View profile

  • People become like vultures to snag the first sandy space available
  • Remember the rule that the locals follow: never turn your back on the ocean
  • The absolute queen of luxury on the Big Island is the world-class Hilton Waikoloa Village

7 Comments

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  • Mike Brady3/28/2007

    ... Great take on the unheard & the unknown splendor(s) of the Big Island. I will use this information in my travel guide notations.

  • Captain LlamaPants3/25/2007

    Nice article. I agree with Debra, when I went to visit I loved the Hilo side much more than Kona. More relaxed and down to earth, my kind of style.

    Green sand beach is definitely a must see, one of my favorite parts of the trip. I adore Hawaii with every ounce of my being! :)

  • nyjdmr3/18/2007

    Some of the smaller Islands are a delight especially Kawaii. I recommend the Marriott if you can shell out an extra few dollars and are planning a family vacation or just want to get away in style. Amazing Island but a hell of a plane ride 12 hours YIKES !!!

  • Jack Oceano3/18/2007

    Great article. I lived in Hawaii for a year, and I miss it greatly.

  • Debra Brown3/17/2007

    I spent two months on the Big Island working - one month on each side. Hilo side is my favorite - more real there. Kona was too touristy for me. You didn't mention the hot springs - but I'm assuming that is still a well kept local secret! Great article - I want to go back.

  • Christine Bude3/17/2007

    Great article. When I was in Kona year ago, I stayed at the Royal Kona, the pyramid shaped hotel within view of the King Kam. Loved it! Is it still there?

  • Jeff Musall3/16/2007

    many of those who "ooh and aah" over hotels in travel articles are only repeating what they have heard and/or read...it is refreshing to get travel reviews from someone who has actually been there...and helpful, and I am planning on going there this fall!

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