What's "Real" in the Jewelry Business?

Jewelry shoppers can often become confused by the use of unfamiliar terminology. Lab created, genuine, natural, and synthetic are words used for gemstones that mean occasionally similar, but generally very different things. Even gold, gold plated, and gold filled can be confusing to consumers.

Historically, gemstones were mined, cut, then polished and sold. It was a time- and labor-intensive practice. Many gemstones that are natural now have imperfections in them called inclusions. Emeralds are a very good example of this; most natural emeralds that are sold now are cloudy.

Lab-created stones are not "fake." These stones match their natural counterparts as far as their chemical composition is concerned. The difference between these stones and stones that are mined is that the lab-created stones do not have imperfections or flaws in them. Some stones are available as lab-created simply because their natural sources have run out. Alexandrite is a good example of this. Natural alexandrite with a visible color change is far more expensive than diamond.

Synthetic stones are not chemically composed of the same elements as their twins. Most class rings and many 'family jewelry' pieces in which many birthstones are used substitute colored (or clear) cubic zirconia or even glass. Synthetic stones are often tougher then their counterparts and are always less expensive, which is why they are used in less expensive jewelry.

Gold jewelry will almost always be stamped with its karat weight, usually 10, 14, or 18. This is the easiest way to tell what is gold all the way through. Sterling silver jewelry is also stamped with a 525 to indicate that it is silver and not another metal.

Gold filled is gold layered over another metal. Filled is higher quality and thicker than gold plating. It is unlikely to wear off. It is less expensive than gold jewelry.

Gold plated jewelry is usually silver or some other metal that has a thin covering of gold over it. Over time, the gold will rub away, but this is a very inexpensive alternative to gold.

Gold plating, though, should never be confused with rhodium plating. Rhodium plating is often applied to white gold or sterling silver jewelry to make it appear more white. It doesn't mean that the jewelry is lower quality, but occasionally can effect polishing of the jewelry.

Armed with this knowledge, consumers can be a little more informed next time the purchase jewelry.