When in Rome: Living the Vita Italian

Emily Boyle
If you ever have the privilege of living in Italy, your life will never be the same. Your wardrobe may become dominantly black; you may respond to questions for which you have no answer with the familiar "boh"; you will gesture with your hands so broadly you may knock vases off of their shelves; you will crave bolognese sauce; you will know why brunello wines are so good; and you will never mind when a waiter takes more than five minutes to return the bill to the table.

I moved to Italy for my junior year of college with only a phrase book's worth of the language to guide me. I took classes in Bologna, located a two-hour train ride north of Florence; I lived with two Italian roommates who spoke no English; and I learned the value of bagging my own groceries. Fortunately, most Italians I met were very patient and happy to help me learn their customs. Here are some tips I picked up during my life and travels in Italy:

1. Expect the unexpected. I loved to ride trains in Italy. For less than twenty American dollars, I could travel to Venice, Rome or Florence on a whim. The train schedules were fairly predictable, but the railroad strikes were not. Be prepared for politically-motivated surprises like this. You can easily find yourself in the midst of a schopero (strike) or a communist protest while walking down a sidewalk. The best course of action is not to panic and to always be flexible. Italy's spontaneity is part of its beauty.

2. Learn to talk with your hands. If you don't know the language, you will have to do a lot of pointing and gesturing. Charades will become part of your daily routine. Most Italians are patient teachers and will be glad to help you find what you need. If you are in a store, for example, and you need tissues, you can pretend to blow your nose. Clerks will immediately point you in the right direction and will appreciate your attempt to communicate.

3. Buy wines from the bottom shelf. Unlike in the United States, many grocery stores sell great wines on the lower shelves of their merchandise. If the bottle says "brunello" and costs less than twenty American dollars, purchase it immediately. Brunellos are Tuscan wines that cost at least $50 on sale in the U.S. You will not be disappointed. Don't overlook other wines, even if they've got a little dust on them.

4. Get to know the bus system. Buses are a relatively cheap and easy means of transportation in Italy. When you arrive in a new town, buy a bus pass and a map. Make sure to have your pass with you at all times because police officers often check passengers and assign fines for non-payment.

5. Phones are orange; mailboxes are red. Telecom Italia payphones are a burnt-orange color, which makes them very easy to spot. Most only take phone cards, which can be purchased at newspaper stands and specialty phone stores. Look for phone banks -- rooms full of telephones -- if the noise on the street is too loud. Mailboxes are attached to walls throughout Italian cities. Bright red, they bear the word "lettere."

6. Use cell phones instead of land lines. Italian cell phone technology is light-years ahead of other countries. Text-messaging is a very common means of communication. Cell phones can also be cheaper than land lines. To account for land line usage, all phones come with a digital counter to units for payment. These are tallied at the end of each month. Cell phones come with more affordable plans -- especially for long distance.

7. Learn restaurant etiquette. Restaurants generally open late for dinner, around 7 p.m. Visitors who eat at that time, however, are still considered very early. Most Italians enjoy apertivi (cocktails) at bars before venturing out for the large meal. They go to restaurants around 8 p.m. and feast on meals for up to three hours. Waiters don't hover over tables -- they take orders, deliver food, and leave the customers alone. Be prepared to be patient and to learn to eat slowly. Tips are not required, but are much appreciated.

8. Take a nap in the afternoon. Many stores close around lunch time and don't open again until 4 or 5 p.m. Try to anticipate your needs before this time so that you won't be left without. In the meantime, you may enjoy resting yourself.

9. Carry your own bags to the grocery store. When you purchase groceries, you must also buy the bags to carry them. You must also bag your own groceries. To make your shopping experiences easier, take a large canvas bag to the store with you. These are much sturdier than the store-bought plastic bags and will be much more comfortable to carry. If you do not have a car, shop more frequently so you do not have to carry as much home with you.

10. Don't plan an August shopping trip. Many Italian store-owners take the entire month of August off for vacation, pulling down the metal doors to cover their store fronts. This tradition may not be observed as often in larger cities, but it would be worth your while to check beforehand to learn whether or not the stores you would like to visit will be open.

Published by Emily Boyle

I teach high school English in a rural North Carolina community. The focus of my courses is writing. I also have a degree in journalism, with newspaper, publishing and freelance experience.  View profile

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