Why Greece Appeals to Myriad Travelers

Since we were traveling to Greece in late August for a friend's wedding, I thought watching "Momma Mia," "The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants," and "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" would prepare me, if not at least psych me up for our trip. I'd seen the postcards of the blue dome roofs atop the white city on a cliff. I've even eaten Greek salads. None of it stopped my mouth from falling agape for most of the trip. During our seven day adventure, I learned that tomatoes actually have flavor; time has remarkably preserved some of the oldest structures in the world; and the word turquoise was probably invented to describe the waters off the Greek isles.

Athens
After a long, delayed flight from the U.S. a hot shower took top priority and this hotel did not disappoint. When our taxi driver dropped us off at the Hilton (46 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, Athens), I flew past the expansive South Beach-esque lobby and headed straight for our hotel room. The high-pressured rain shower, albeit small, provided the perfect rebirth. The contoured soaking tub looked appealing as well.

A friend of mine who worked on security details for the 2004 Olympics suggested this hotel after numerous trips to this location. I'm so glad I took her advice. Departing on the 7:15 am ferry the next morning only allowed for one partial day to see the Acropolis and museum. The Hilton is close but expensive (around 200 euros after taxes). I would pay that price again for the cleanliness, comfort and level of service. Not to mention the pool.

Whether or not you're a guest at the Hilton, many people make their way to its roof deck bar and restaurant to watch the sun set and the moon rise over the Parthenon in the distance. As daylight fades on the tall, heavily mortared Parthenon, the history of what was gives way to the reality of what is. Fluorescent lights glow upwards from the city streets and you are reminded that this city now has a thriving European nightlife. And yes, the prices are as breathtaking as the view.

In late August, the dry air warms you up quickly, but the sustained winds reduce the temperature. Two people can easily down a liter of water during lunch, and it suggested that they do so to stay properly hydrated.

Getting directions from locals in Greece is an exercise in etymology. You would think that if our language has so many roots in theirs that understanding them would be tricky yet doable. Several times I had to ask for the locals to spell out street names. I'm sure they felt the same way about my articulations as well. Additionally, the letters in the Greek alphabet (other than a few sorority references) were completely lost on me.

The metro in Athens is clean and as reliable as any U.S. metro system. It's also much cheaper than a taxi and takes you right up to the new museum. The Acropolis museum sits in the shadow of the Parthenon, the former temple to Athena. Her gold and ivory statue once towered around 40 feet tall. The museum is built on top of an excavated portion of the city of Acropolis with clear glass floors to reveal even more history. (http://www.newacropolismuseum.gr/eng/). With so many pieces to see, it takes a mythology geek about two hours to get through all four levels. It's well worth the one euro entry fee, which should be purchased online to save yourself 30 minutes of standing in line.

The finely preserved statues are spread out in a white marble floored gallery as if they are frozen inside the heavens they once represented. Most of the friezes have well written descriptions in English allowing the non-mythology geeks a chance to enjoy them as well. The short film on the fourth floor, however, is not in English and does not have subtitles. There is a café inside the museum, but even the locals suggest choosing one of the sidewalk cafés just down the road instead. Travel guide and writer Matt Barrett responded rather quickly to my inquiry for a suggestion on which café to choose next to the museum. (http://www.greektravel.com/).

Santorini
Despite what you may read elsewhere, we found that it best book ferry rides around the Greek islands online in advance. And, if you get even the slightest bit sea sick, try to buy business class seats, which are around 15-20 euro more per ticket, at least for the four hour plus rides. Taking Dramamine doesn't hurt either. Despite the sunny skies and ample walking room around the ships, the constant left to right rocking motion did several people in. Hellenic has new, clean boats and in the morning, usually departs on time.

It's hard to imagine standing on the bow of a ship as it pulls into the inner circle of Santorni's caldera. You don't see developers going into Italy's Mt. Edna and constructing luxury hotels with a view of the caldera. Essentially Santorini is the same thing. Just add water. It's hard to believe that one of the world's hottest ravel destinations is the rim of a volcano that blew up 3,459 years ago.

Large tour buses waiting at the port take you up the very steep, narrow climb into the cities. For around 20 euros for two people, you and your luggage get dropped off near your hotel. Then the driver tells you to call your hotel and they will send someone up the sinewy footpaths to meet you.

Most rooms in the town of Imerovigli, have a cliff hanging view to make any mountain climber jealous. Built literally into the edge of the rim, the whitewashed hotels hang on for dear life in the most passive and gravity defying way. Santorini is not a good place for those with vertigo. We stayed at the Pegasus Suites hotel for two days, but will plan to return someday to stay for a full week. A full breakfast is served at your terrace or by the pool each morning. I also appreciated the no-children, no-cell phone unspoken agreement by those of us lounging around the small pool. Most tourists speed around on mopeds and scooters, visiting the red and black beaches and their cold, clear water.

There is no bad food on Santorini. A Greek friend of ours ordered everything for us at the restaurant Raki, which is where a scene from "Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants" part two was filmed. The wooden tables and chairs are arranged comfortably under a canopy of vines and night sky. (Women will want to dress warmly even in the summer as most night time dining is outside and the breeze can be very chilling.) The onslaught of delicious appetizers is a gastrophile's delight. The table red wine is served in a large copper mug and the wine glasses are what Americans usually drink orange juice in. If possible, eating tapas style allows for a chance to find your favorite dishes, most of which are served at restaurants throughout Santorini.

With all apologies to Italy, I think Greece has the most flavorful tomatoes in the world. Dripping with red ripeness, they burst in your mouth and compliment the thick, smooth olive oil dripping from freshly baked bread slices. Many of the menu items are being served fried, even if they do not indicate so '" cheese and tomatoes in particular. The chicken served on skewers with mushrooms and peppers may sound familiar but the seasonings are not. Save room for dessert. The sweets are not too sweet and the portions are large enough to share.

If lounging by the pool bores you after a few days, there are "activities" to feed the adventurous spirit. Day tours to the volcano and hot springs are available for around 30 Euros a person (http://www.thiratours.com/Santorini-volcano-cruises.htm). The Great Blue Maritime Company submarine takes you only a few feet under the sea, but it's enough to view a whole new world. There are some ancient historical findings in the somewhat recently excavated area of Ancient Akrotiri, but even a history buff might find the shopping more interesting. There is no shortage of boutique hopping. I heard price negotiations were possible, but I wasn't brave enough to try it. I also didn't try the cable car or ride a donkey down the side of the caldera but the option was available.

Our friends went to Sigalas Estate winery one afternoon and were treated to a rare wine making process lesson, in addition to some delicious wines. Due to the high sustained winds and lack of natural irrigation, the vines are grown at ground level, not at the chest high branches like in Napa Valley. Our hotel gave us a bottle of Nykteri, a white that is best served room temperature. We loved it so much we bought a bottle to bring back with us only to discover you can buy it in the States. The rough terrier produces complicated wines every year for those who appreciate deep flavor.

Tinos
I'm not sure this island is a destination American tourists plan to visit, though 10,000 Greeks call it home. Most would be more likely to stay on neighboring Mykonos, which is known for its Mardi Gras style night life. Since we were on Tinos for a wedding, we utilized the local agent services of Windmill Travel. Renting a car on this surprisingly large island is a must. Before we left, I tried to research which side of the road people drive on. Turns out it's not the left or the right, but sort of right down the middle at full speed.

The bride's family is from a small village and we were treated to a real Greek Orthodox ceremony, complete with throwing rice inside the church, the kissing of the Bible three times, and the repeated shot gun firings outside. The newly married couple greeted their guests in a receiving line outside the church as the rosy sun sank into the corner of the sea. A smattering of honey-dipped sesame seed bars and shots of "Greek Moonshine" called Raki were served and the very chilly winds picked up their ferocity.

This island is called the sunny and windy island for very good reason. The only other time I felt sustained winds this high was during the approach of Hurricane Charlie when I lived in Florida. No joke. It's no wonder that one of the largest temples to Poseidon was built on Tinos. If the god who controls the winds at sea lives anywhere on land, it would be right there. Honestly, it was uncomfortable to lay out on the beach with the sand pelting your skin. Without a lawn chair, laying out on the beach in Tinos is like giving yourself a hot stone massage. The pool water isn't heated and is more like a cold plunge year-round. I'm refraining from reviewing the hotel we stayed at in Tinos because I don't think a dual income, childless American couple is the target audience of Tinos Beach Hotel. The numerous European families with lots of loud children seemed to be quite happy there.

Tinos is also home to the destination of the second largest religious pilgrimage to Mary in the world: Pangia Evangelistria. Entrance to the church is free, but proper dress is requested. Even if you are not religious, visiting the location is a unique glimpse inside a beautiful culture.

Rafina
The port town of Rafina is the perfect place to stay if you are in town for one night before flying out the next morning. When we got off the boat, as we saw many times in Greece, there were no clear markings that say "Taxis" or "This way to downtown Rafina." Men will have to learn to ask for directions. When we asked someone for Hotel Avra, they pointed North and said a few kilometers. When you're traveling with a heavy backpack, rollerboard luggage and a duffle bag, walking "a few kilometers" especially in heels is not fun. Not wanting to look like lazy Americans, we huffed it up the hill anyway.

Hotel Avra is clean and amenable. But as a newly married couple, I was tired of sleeping in a separate bed than my husband. Yes, for some mysterious reason of ancient piety, most couples are booked in a room with two twin beds pushed together like a scene from the Dick Van Dike show. Only if you are a single traveler do you get to sleep on a queen-sized mattress. Rather than asking to change rooms, and needing to recover from our 3 a.m. wedding reception partying, we just crashed for the night.

Dining in Rafina is easy because everything is within walking distance to the hotels. I've never seen so many restaurants side-by-side in one small town center. Several of them were serving Italian themed dishes, which is a disappointment for someone looking for one last authentic Greek supper. At night, the town's square pulsates with children on bikes, skateboards and families treating their kids to gelato. There's plenty of late night shopping as well. However, during our one night stay the power went out over for most of the city for several minutes. Twice. Nobody seemed surprised.

Another factoid I did not read on any travel web sites before leaving for Greece was how hard it is to catch a taxi to the airport early in the morning. Our hotel did not call one for us because they said "it's faster and easier to stand on that corner and catch one." Maybe something was lost in translation because I practically had to stand in the middle of the road to catch any one's attention. Lesson learned: next time, if you learn one phrase in Greek, let be "please call me a taxi."

For all our hotels, ferries, flights and meals, we paid around $3,700 for the two of us after taxed and fees.