Illinois was officially part of the Union during the Civil War, but don't let that fool you, It was as divided as the rest of the country and several counties were south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Even today, there are parts of Southern Illinois that are definitely southern.
People in this part of the state don't feel the need to define it as sweet tea, what else would it be? This is still part of the Bible-belt complete with good old-fashioned blue laws on Sunday. And, Southern hospitality is just a way of life around here.
That said, it's physical proximity to the South, the real South, has led Southern Illinois to become an interesting mixture of history and Midwestern farmers. Much of the southernmost part of the state was settled by sharecroppers after the Civil War and Cairo became a hotbed for the Civil Rights movement in the 1960s.
It is also the place where the Ohio and Mississippi rivers meet up. Before the days of cross-country railroads and over-the-road trucking, the port of Cairo was an important part of the U.S. Economy. One of the nicest historic buildings in town is the old Customs House. The restored Magnolia Manor is also a wonderful bed and breakfast and restaurant.
And, just south of Cairo, at the very point where the rivers come together is Fort Defiance State Park. The land there has served as a Union shipyard and army camp with little know U.S. general like future president Ulysses Grant being among the people who commanded troops there.
The heyday of Cairo was before the Civil War and the architecture of the community reflects that, with huge 150-year-old brick manor houses and merchants buildings in the downtown. Now, the city is very much a city in need of rebirth and shows many of the trials of the last couple centuries in some parts of town.
Still, the historical parts of the community and the park alone are worth the drive. Cairo is about 3 hours north of Memphis, Tennessee, and two hours south of St. Louis, Missouri. The city is protected by a 55-foot seawall to hold back the rivers during peak runoff seasons and Fort Defiance has wonderful observation towers built to observe barge and other boat traffic on the rivers. On a clear day, you can watch the relatively clear waters of the Ohio River fight and try to stay pure until they are overwhelmed by the muddy Mississippi.
In addition to the history at Fort Defiance and Cairo, just a few miles north on Illinois Route 3, is the tiny community of Mound City. The only claim to fame of this wide spot in the road is a national cemetery sometimes referred to as a mini-Arlington. The cemetery is maintained by officials from Jefferson Barracks in St. Louis and contains the final resting places for soldiers from before the Civil War to the most modern conflicts, including Iraq and Afghanistan.
It is also home to Illinois' monument to the unknown soldier and the graves of many freed slaves who came to Illinois during and just after the war, hoping for the freedom they had been promised. Travelers interested in just a little more of Civil War-era history can continue north on Route 3 to the small Mississippi River village of Thebes and the old county courthouse there.
Legend has it that Dred Scot was imprisoned briefly in the courthouse before being taken to Missouri to begin the trial that would change the nation.
For history buffs, or someone just needing a relaxing drive in the country, southernmost Illinois has a lot to offer. The countryside is varied, from river floodplains and farms in the fertile delta soil, to the bluffs and so-called Illinois Ozarks as you approach the Mississippi River. Closer to the Ohio River side of the state, there are cypress swamps with trees older than the nation itself for the naturalist to enjoy.
Published by Lucinda Gunnin
Lucinda Gunnin is a writer in Illinois, who spends her days running a mini-storage complex. She had her first short stories published in 2009's Elements of the Soul and more in the recently published Element... View profile
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