Zurich: a Visitor's Guide

Zurich is a city of about 370,000 (there are approximately 1.3 million inhabitants in the canton of Zurich) and is the largest city in Switzerland. An internationally known world center of finance, Zurich is also a cultural hub, providing the nearly one million visitors who come to Zurich annually a unique combination of old world charm and new world sophistication.

Perhaps the first thing a visitor should know about Zurich is that the tram system is probably the best way to get around. There are nearly two dozen lines, and they overlap quite a bit, especially in the historic center, but they are clean, convenient, and punctual. If you remember the Matt Damon film, The Bourne Identity, Zurich's blue trams were featured in the movie.

There are three historic churches of note, and they are all within walking distance to each other, the Grossmünster, the Fraumünster, and St. Peter's Church.

The Grossmünster was founded by Charlemagne, and its present Romanesque building dates to 1220. It is probably best known, however, for its role in the Protestant Reformation, which was initiated in Switzerland by Huldrych Zwingli in 1520. The church has two towers, one of which is open to the public. At the top of the spiral staircase, there is an open-air observatory featuring wonderful views of Zurich.

The nearby Fraumünster dates to approximately the 10^th Century and is today famous for its collection of stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. Executed in 1967 by an 80 year-old Chagall, these windows are a marvelous surprise for any visitor.

The oldest parish church in Zurich is St. Peter's, whose current building dates to the early 13^th Century. It is best known for its large clock face, which was added in 1534. It is known by many to be the largest clock face in Europe, measuring at 28.5ft/8.7m in diameter.

The Landesmuseum, or Swiss National Museum, is centrally located near the main train station and is considered one of the most impressive museums of its kind in Europe, covering Swiss history and culture from the pre-historic era to contemporary times.

The Kunsthaus Zürich, or Zurich Museum of Art is a true treasure. Opened in 1910, it features artwork from both Swiss and international masters, dating from the Middle-Ages to the present. It features the largest collection of works by Edvard Munch outside of Norway, and many of the important works of Alberto Giacometti have been on display since 2002. Other well known artists whose works are part of the permanent collection include Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Rousseau, Kokoschka, Chagall, and Rothko.

In regards to shopping, few streets in the world can compare with the Bahnhofstrasse. Think Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills with a Swiss attitude, the Bahnhofstrasse is an auto-free shopping boulevard (there are trams) that starts at the main train station. Shops you'll find there include Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani, Cartier, Tiffany and Co., and Dior. But don't worry, not every shop is very high end. You'll easily find shops for nearly every budget.

An historic center of the arts is Cabaret Voltaire, where the Dada movement was founded in 1916. Many European artists, escaping the violence of WWI, came to Zurich, and the Cabaret Voltaire provided them an outlet to create and share their ideas and work. Founder Hugo Ball first read the Dada Manifesto at the club in July, 1916. Other founding members included Marcel Janco, Richard Huelsenbeck, Tristan Tzara, and Jean Arp.

James Joyce and Elias Canetti are both buried in the Fluntern Cemetary. Joyce lived in Zurich during WWI and returned in 1940. He died in 1941; his wife Nora is buried next to him. His grave is easy to find; there is a life-size sculpture of the writer in a seated position. The Nobel Prize winning Canetti lived in Zurich during his youth and returned in the 1970s. He died in 1994 and is buried near Joyce.

Another creative mind of great note associated with Zurich is Le Corbusier, the Swiss born architect. The Centre Le Corbusier was the last building designed by Le Corbusier and was completed shortly after his death in 1967. The brainchild of his long-time patron and business partner, Heidi Weber, the building was designed to house Le Corbusier's artwork. Unfortunately, the building's hours of operation are severely limited to July-September, Saturday and Sunday, 2pm - 5pm. The grounds, however, are open year round.

When the weather is favorable, make sure to visit Lake Zurich. There are many boating activities, and along its waterfront, there is a promenade for strolling which includes open air restaurants and beer gardens. The water in Lake Zurich is amazingly clean; it's even potable.